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H4D/40 First Impressions

fotografz

Well-known member
Hi all, HAPPY EASTER! to those that celebrate it.

Well, I took deliver of my new H4D/40 yesterday and thought I'd share a few initial impressions.

Now, my perspective will be different from some other MFD users here on Get Dpi as I am not a landscape shooter. My application of an MFD kit is oriented toward Environmental Portraits (about as close as I get to landscapes), Urban Portraits, and above all Weddings ... with some detail work both in studio and on location.


The other aspect that may differ from others considering this camera is that I am very familiar with use of the H system having use one for many years now. I can work with it as quickly as a DSLR, and can usually adjust controls (like both exposure and flash compensation) without taking my eye from the viewfinder. I have the camera custom set to my needs ... for example, I have the much used Manual White Balance function assigned to the stop-down button on the grip (I rarely use stop down). It is very fast to just click off a MWB shot of the Bride's dress and get to shooting. No menu stuff to deal with at all.

Criteria: most of my work is done handheld, with little time to fiddle with controls ... more spontaneous and intuitive than planned or contemplative. A lot of it is also done in lower ambient light.

So, three things piqued my interest in this new camera: True Focus, an improved Focus Assist light, and better ISO performance. Eventually, I will be trying the long exposure without the need for a second black calibration capture for some of the tripod bound urban stuff at night.

My objective is similar to Guy's ... narrowing my gear to do more with less. Eventually using a Leica M and this camera for a majority of my paying work.

True Focus: what can I say ... amazing. I focus-recompose almost all of the time, and when using lenses like the 100/2.2 up close and wide open with its paper thin DOF, it isn't easy to nail it using just the center focus point and recomposing. So that was the first thing I tried ... the 100/2.2 @ 2.2 close up.

This TF innovation is much faster in practice than activating multi-AF point selection and wheeling the point to the subject on a DSLR ... also, DSLRs do not have the AF points out toward the edges enough for some compositions forcing you to focus recompose anyway. Plus these outer AF points are often less sensitive than the center point. True Focus allowed me to select an AF subject further toward the edges than any DSLR I've used to date while retaining the sensitivity of the center AF point. You do have to take care not to sway while recomposing ... as usual, a good technique is essential.

Actual TF/AF operation is assigned to a rear thumb button and is used to do the focusing, (the TF symbol appears in the viewfinder). Once AF is locked , you recompose and shoot. Very fast to use right away with no practice needed.

ISO: so far I haven't shot anything below 400. Most of my initial test shots were done at 400 or 1600. I also deliberately underexposed a 1600 shot by a stop as a torture test. For my applications, I think ISO 1600 is highly usable for wedding work and Urban Portraits, where the print size won't exceed 11 X 14 with no crop. However, I need to actually try printing a 1600 shot at 17 X 22 since print noise looks better than on screen images.

Shadow noise is pretty good at 1600, some very slight discoloration in subtile areas of flat colored surfaces on files where I lifted the exposure ... I saw very slight banding in OOF areas with only one 1600 shot that I pushed pretty far.

On Camera AF Assist Light: this is now white and quite bright with a pretty hard edged pattern .... it literally allowed me to focus on a flat wall with no edges. What remains to be seen is whether this will prematurely alert candid subjects. If so, I will assign a user button to toggle it on or off if possible.

Here are some snaps from around the house. Hand held, available light indoors (it was raining outside yesterday, and the interior lighting was gloomy). All shots done with the HC/100/2.2 @ f/2.2. Everything was processed in LR ... I'll try them out in Phocus later, but I often do the Leica, Sony and H stuff all in LR ... so I wanted to see how the files looked using LR.

The two pillow shots were done ISO 400 & 1600 (marked one @ ISO 400, the other unmarked one @ 1600). True Focus was on the knotting on the end of of each pillow. The candy bowls show TF on the candy eggs bottom right corner. The little tea cup used TF on the red ball. The bedroom shot was @ 1600 and underexposed by a little over a stop and pulled up in PS ... the TF was on the ceiling fan. I added an extreme crop of the fan to show the noise structure. (some shots were done at questionable shutter speeds for hand held, but I did it anyway.)

More to come as I get a chance to use this pup ... especially to shoot people rather than knickknacks ;) As with any new camera with a different sensor, I'll figure out how to get more from the files as I use it. I should blow the dust of my Mono Pod and start using it :ROTFL:

-Marc
 
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fotografz

Well-known member
Added ...

first prints just came off the 3800 .... this camera is a WINNER for me! 1600 prints look like 400 prints out of the H3D-II/39.

-Marc
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Congratulations Marc,

Knew you'd love the new back and body combo!

:thumbs:
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Looking good Marc may want to try a ISO 800 pushed to 1600. It may just get cleaner but these are looking what I expected.
 
Congratulations on the camera Marc. ISO 1600 looks good and grain shown in the crop of the ceiling fan is not objectionable at all, in fact, it could look good in B&W.

Mark
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Thanks. Can't wait to give it whirl on a paying job!

I'll give that 800 suggestion a try Guy. :thumbup:

Off to Ham, potato salad and gaudy colored eggs :D

-Marc
 
T

tetsrfun

Guest
The bedroom shot was @ 1600 and underexposed by a little over a stop and pulled up in PS ... the TF was on the ceiling fan. I added an extreme crop of the fan to show the noise structure. (some shots were done at questionable shutter speeds for hand held, but I did it anyway.)
*******
I would be interested in a comparison of the fan shot processed with Phocus 2.1 vs LR and also ISO 1600 with under exposed shadows, Phocus vs LR.

Steve
 

mark1958

Member
Marc.. Sounds like it is a great camera. How is the speed to AF -- i mean the time it takes to lock onto the focus point compare to a 35mm DSLR vs lets say the H3DII MF cameras?
 

David K

Workshop Member
Marc, really glad this newer Hassy seems to be living up to it's hype, especially the TF feature. I do a fair amount of people shooting myself and have run into the same issues as you with the outside focus points... they're never quite where you want them. I cope with it but the ability to accurately focus... recompose... shoot sure would be nice.
 

Jeffg53

Member
Marc, I would be really interested in how you get sharp shots handheld with the H4D. I am still struggling with whether to dump the Sony, and also how to get a good strike rate handheld.
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Marc, I would be really interested in how you get sharp shots handheld with the H4D. I am still struggling with whether to dump the Sony, and also how to get a good strike rate handheld.
Jeff, doesn't matter if it's a H camera, a Phase camera or any MF camera ... the shooting technique is a bit different from a DSLR like our Sonys.

First of all, you have to try to keep the shutter speed up because you are dealing with a bigger mirror slap. Good high ISO performance may be as important for this reason, as it is for lower ambient shooting.

I use a few things to help with hand held MFD shots.

First, the Hassey H cameras have a custom menu selection to set the a mirror delay ... that is, a delay from the time the mirror goes up out of the way and the shutter trips. It is measured in milliseconds. Default is 50 ms and I set mine to 100 ms default. I tested this feature and it actually helped.

Secondly, I always use a hand strap. The one I now prefer is from Camadpter with the ARCA type QR plate that allows you to also attach a shoulder strap. BTW, I use the same rig on the Sony A900.

Lastly, nothing beats a good tripod to squeeze the most out of any MFD kit.

If you get a minute, also look at the other recent post I made here showing a hand-held shot of a Deer that I did yesterday with the H4D and 210/4.

-Marc
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Marc.. Sounds like it is a great camera. How is the speed to AF -- i mean the time it takes to lock onto the focus point compare to a 35mm DSLR vs lets say the H3DII MF cameras?
Mark, in regular shooting conditions with decent light, I haven't noticed any AF speed difference over the H3D-II so far. I do see a difference in lower light due to the brighter, white AF assist light.

I am going to experiment with assigning the regular AF function (not True Focus) to one of the other grip buttons and see if it gains lock-on speed. We did that when experimenting with the Leica S2 and it made quite a difference.

-Marc
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Here is a grab shot from yesterday. We were having Easter dinner and a bunch of deer walked into the yard and started eating the tender young plants in the garden.

I grabbed the H4D/40 with a 210/4 and stepped out for the one shot they allowed before bolting for cover.

Full image shown, then how I would crop it for a print ... one version using LR3.2Beta, and the other Phocus to process the RAW file.
It's hard to tell the difference between processors with a compressed web sized jpg, but the Phocus version is better in many subtile areas (I'm still learning the latest version of Phocus, so it probably could be even better). Yet I must say that Light Room is getting better with each new version.

H4D/40 @ ISO 800 ... HC 210/4 @ f/7, shutter speed 1/500th. (an amateur's apologies to the pro wildlife shooters here on Get Dpi :eek:)
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
Here is a grab shot from yesterday. We were having Easter dinner and a bunch of deer walked into the yard and started eating the tender young plants in the garden.

I grabbed the H4D/40 with a 210/4 and stepped out for the one shot they allowed before bolting for cover.

Full image shown, then how I would crop it for a print ... one version using LR3.2Beta, and the other Phocus to process the RAW file.
It's hard to tell the difference between processors with a compressed web sized jpg, but the Phocus version is better in many subtile areas (I'm still learning the latest version of Phocus, so it probably could be even better). Yet I must say that Light Room is getting better with each new version.

H4D/40 @ ISO 800 ... HC 210/4 @ f/7, shutter speed 1/500th. (an amateur's apologies to the pro wildlife shooters here on Get Dpi :eek:)
Grrrr! Venison :mad: They eat our tender shoots as well, mostly the decorative type. They are too pretty to dislike in reality, though.:angel:

I am having a demo of the H4D-50 at the Pro Centre in London (ie. Hassy UK) tomorrow morning. Seeing your shots, Marc, and hearing your thoughts on the H4D-40 is certainly whetting my appetite. I'm glad True focus seems to work. That could be a deal clincher.

The thing I am very interested in trying out is the HTS 1.5 tilt / shift adaptor for the H-series, but its a lot of money. Brilliant concept though and it's the device that is realy swinging me in Hassy's direction. The HTS 1.5 can be used for sequentially shooting 3 shots using sideways shift for even higher rsolution (as if 40mp or 50mp wasn't enough already :confused:) as well as perpective correction and shifting the plane of focus.

MF is coming of age.

Keep the shots coming!

Quentin
 
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fotografz

Well-known member
Marc, many thanks. I know about the mirror delay and I will look into the strap. I take it that you are shooting on manual, or shutter priority to ensure an adequate shutter speed. Have you seen this: http://www.arcurs.com/episode-4-essential-gear-my-monopod

Those deer shots are impressive. The 210 doesn't give you a lot of room to be wrong.
Actually, I use either Aperture Priority or manual. I haven't used Shutter Priority forever.

I do often use a Mono Pod in lower light ... a Carbon Fiber Gitzo G1588, not as quick for adjusting height, but I rarely need to do that once shooting ... I do like that rotating bracket he demos, and have thought about getting one for some time. Thanks for the link!

-Marc

Here's another crop of an Easter family snap (inset shows portion cropped ... family members given the "Witness Protection" blur : -)

H4D/40 @ ISO 400, 28/4 @ f/7
 

Jeffg53

Member
Marc, I've just had a look at the Camadapter site. There seems to be three Arca plates, but I can't work out which I would need. Do you know which one you have?
 
S

Shelby Lewis

Guest
Looking good Marc... I love that TF is working as planned. Fantastic!

I think the 1600 looks really nice, and the noise structure is pretty pleasant. That last iso 400 shot doesn't look as nice to me (noise-wise), for some reason, but it is an extreme crop. I have to keep telling myself that this is an on-screen crop from a 40MP camera and that the prints probably look stunning.

Thanks for sharing. This makes me really want to look at the H system. I'm building an "inexpensive" RZ system right now, but part of me wants to find a good hand-holdable MF solution in the future. Glad to see Hasselblad making good on it's promises.

These 40MP sensors really look sweet.
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Looking good Marc... I love that TF is working as planned. Fantastic!

I think the 1600 looks really nice, and the noise structure is pretty pleasant. That last iso 400 shot doesn't look as nice to me (noise-wise), for some reason, but it is an extreme crop. I have to keep telling myself that this is an on-screen crop from a 40MP camera and that the prints probably look stunning.

Thanks for sharing. This makes me really want to look at the H system. I'm building an "inexpensive" RZ system right now, but part of me wants to find a good hand-holdable MF solution in the future. Glad to see Hasselblad making good on it's promises.

These 40MP sensors really look sweet.
Good eye Shelby ... I underexposed that 400 shot pretty badly due to the white wall :eek: ... and no one wanted their photo taken, so no second chance :ROTFL:

It was probably the equivalent of ISO 1000 or so lifted from a 400 shot ... my bad.

Also Mark, I found out that if you use custom function 31 to make True Focus full time connected to single AF like I set it ... it slows the AF down a bit. I changed it back to only activated with the TF thumb button and the AF got faster.

-Marc
 
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