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Cambo Actus-DB2 + Hasselblad 50c 100c

9

90s

Well-known member
Thank you guys for your valuable advice.

I have a lot of reading and learning to do before I decide on anything. But the photos you post show that this could be a good direction for my photographic adventure.
This 60 xl lens from the descriptions is the first one I found that met the criteria. But if there are any other sharp lenses with a range that will not limit me, I will gladly consider them.

Thank you very much Rdeloe for the description and explaining the focal length issue.
As for the Hasselblad V, I do not want to go with the Hasselblad V or X for several reasons. I currently have a similar sensor. I do not need IBIS. Live preview, it will make things easier, but my target equipment is the H6D-100c. A larger sensor, 16Bit and a larger tonal range, LV probably works correctly since it has video options.

TimoK could you post some examples of photos you took with your set?

The landscape does not run away and currently it takes me a lot of time to take photos. I think I will actually start with something 52-76 mm and ask a dealer for a demo. I would also like to ask about setting the focus closer than infinity.
Do I understand correctly that thanks to the Bellows, each lens will behave like a macro and the tilt will make it easier to increase the depth of field? Here is an example of a 4-photo panorama, but I did not have a perfectly set nodal point and you can see the cuts.
 
N

Niddiot

Active member
For some reason I ended up with 3 solutions (4 if you count a tilt adapter for P645 lenses) - the Arca Universalis, The Cambo DB and a Linhof Techno. All have merits and drawbacks. The Cambo is the smallest and probably the least featured - in its basic form it's a push shift for panos rather than geared and I think that is important. The arca is larger but is beautifully geared for all the basic movements you need. Common to both is the ability to switch the back so that you can use any mirrorless camera as a digital back OR any of the commonly available DBs with the right adapters. The 'bag' bellows on the cambo are nicer than the arca, better designed and more robust. The Techno is not suitable for anything other than a DB but is the most richly featured have geared movements on both front and rear. For panos the shift is on the front whereas the Arca and Cambo are on the rear. In the end I have put the Arca and Cambo for commission sale but unless you are wedded to a DB then the Arca remains the highest quality most flexible solution - you can shoot film from 6x9 up to 10x8 with just a change in bellows and back. I cant recommend it highly enough, the rotafoot was a game changer for digital mirrorless users.

I did briefly have a Silvestri (bought for the mislabelled 70mm Digaron with the package) and I couldnt recommend that as a solution at all. Quirky to say the least.

On the 100c vs the 50c. I wouldnt go back to a 50 despite the reproducible issues with the 100c and stripes. I rarely run into the issue in practical use. However the shading and colour cast with anything wider than around 50 and movements is ever present and albeit fixable it is a high proportion of pictures. If you use the p645 35mm as wide-angle then not really an issue but you dont get the lovely quality of the LF lenses.
 
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J

jng

Well-known member
​
TimoK said:
I think you have learning and thinking enough now. I don't give you any more to think.

I only correct your misunderstanding with Hasselblad V lenses. Not you but Hasselblad started to mess with terms.

I did mean this old Carl Zeiss Distagon 50 mm CF FLE lens, not those new "V" lenses. http://hasselbladhistorical.eu/pdf/lds/CF50FLE.pdf
Click to expand...
Indeed. Also note that many of the "original" legacy V system lenses are quite sharp, have generous image circles, and for the most part are not absurdly expensive. I have had great results using the 3.5/100 Planar, 4/150 Sonnar, and 5.6/250 Superachromat shifting +/- 10~15mm on the full sized 40x54mm sensor.

Here's one example using the 3.5/100, shot on the IQ3 100 (same sensor as your H6D-100c), stitched with +/- 10 mm shift + 10mm rise:

Here's another made on the IQ3 100 with the 5.6/250 Superachromat, stitched with +/- 15mm shift:
SF City Lights by John Ngai, on Flickr​

In the wide/normal range, the SK 60XL is spectacular but expensive when you are able to find one. Another possibility is the Rodenstock 70HR, which is not exactly cheap but easier to find on the used market and at a substantially lower price if you shop around. To echo a previous comment, a good approach would be to start out with a few less exotic lenses to learn what does and doesn't work, before stepping up into more expensive solutions.

Hope this helps!

John
 
9

90s

Well-known member
Thank you for all the comments and additional valuable advice and tips. I really appreciate them. I am also aware of the knowledge gap I have compared to you. The more I read topics here, the more I realize how many challenges lie ahead of me.

@sj2w1 thanks for the tables, very helpful!

@jng fantastic photos, beautiful quality and locations.

It looks like I might be using the word "panorama" incorrectly and causing some confusion.

@Niddiot thanks for the description of different systems. I need to verify every element of my setup, not just the lenses.

I came up with the idea of reversing the questions
I would like to show you some photos and ask what setup you would use and how you would take them. You have complete freedom, even when it comes to digital backs.

Here is the first example:


Here is the spot on Google Maps:
https://www.google.com/maps/@53.3658518,-1.6983707,3a,90y,304.19h,57.39t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sxcFEkTFNk-XfsdxsJ0xJgg!2e0!6shttps://streetviewpixels-pa.googleapis.com/v1/thumbnail?cb_client=maps_sv.tactile&w=900&h=600&pitch=32.60828668119102&panoid=xcFEkTFNk-XfsdxsJ0xJgg&yaw=304.19196383286186!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDIxMi4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw==

Here is a video where I tested the settings the day before. The final shot was taken the next day at sunrise, but in the same way:
https://youtube.com/shorts/Fwn20_w9k3s

Three photos were taken with an HCD 28mm lens. If it helps, I can upload these three images so you can evaluate the scale of distortions. It was not possible to correct them using automatic tools, I had to manually correct everything.

I would like to keep the 16:9 format if possible and make the scene appear more compressed compared to using an ultra-wide lens, which would shrink everything in the background.

I also came across this topic, which raised more questions:
https://www.getdpi.com/forum/index.php?threads/hasselblad-100c-and-35xl.75781/

If I understand my approach correctly, I will mostly be working with tilting and shifting the digital back, as well as horizontal movements, to capture three frames for a 16:9 format.

What other challenges might I encounter with this type of photography, and what should I pay attention to?

I assume that the image circle parameters refer to the diameter of the center of the circle. How should I account for tilt and shift adjustments, +10mm?

Best regards and have a nice weekend.
 
N

Niddiot

Active member
I think that would be a more satisfying image with tech camera. Drop front or rear rise & stitch would give you a better start point with something like 35 mm lens on HB back
 
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