Mounting larger prints

[John_McMaster]

How do people mount prints larger than, say, 30"x20"? Is dibonding realistic to do yourself (with the right equipment)?

thanks

john - looking at getting a 44" printer

 

[Jack]

I use archival hinging tape and hinge mount the top of the print to the mounting board (I use archival foamcore). Depending on print width, I will use multiple 4" lengths spaced about 8" apart. I then mount-tape (double-sided tape dispensed from a special tape gun) the matt directly to the foamcore across the top and down both sides leaving the bottom open, effectively sandwiching the print between the matt and foamcore. The frame now holds this sandwich together. Mounted thusly, the print is free to float, expand or contract between the matt and foamcore with any temp or humidity changes. The downside of hinge mounting is that the full surface of the print is not 100% flat across the surface, but it is as flat as the paper itself and backing board are. The advantages of a hinge mount are it is archival and no long-term damage is done to the print itself, and then it can float as described above.

I *used to* spray mount. Obviously the adhesive holds the print perfectly flat to the mounting substrate and it looks great when first completed. However I noted that over time, especially with larger prints, the natural expansion and contraction of the print paper would cause it to bubble over time if hung in an unstable environment -- like in a building that might be 68 degrees and relatively low humidity in the winter then transition to 75 degrees and relatively high humidity during the summer. A couple years of those cycles and you can get bubbling.

 

[Rand47]

I use 8 ply archival museum board for large prints that are for sale. Either cold mounted or dry mounted. When framed, it can be “backed” with archival foam core for VERY large prints - helping to keep the 8 ply perfectly flat on genuinely huge prints.

Jack’s approach above also works well, but for some papers at larger sizes the hinging isn’t enough to prevent “wavy” prints in display areas that vary a lot in relative humidity.

Rand

 

[John_McMaster]

Thanks, so leaving any framing up to the end user?

john

 

[Rand47]

Thanks, so leaving any framing up to the end user?

john

John,

Depends on the client. Some jobs start with site visits and include everything from talking about size, lighting, framing, etc. For others prints are just sized and delivered based on client quotes / desires. Sometimes mounted only, sometimes mounted with mat, sometimes even prints loosely rolled into glassine to prevent damage.

Rand

 

[gurtch]

The largest prints I make are 24"x32", and I use a method similar to Jack. I use 3/16" thick acid free fome core as a backing. Then I use 8" long see thru archival mounting strips that I cut into pieces about 2" long. I space these all around the print being careful to leave a minute space between the strip and print so it can expand and contract with temperature and humidity. The over mat I use small pieces of archival tape (about 1" long) on the four corners of the mat to hold it to the fome core. This sandwich is then put into the frame. I use usually black aluminum frame pairs that have springs that hold the sandwich tightly in their frame. I lately have been using plexiglass in lieu of glass, it is lighter and less breakable.
Dave in NJ