I used the one you posted....
Ricardo,
sent you the image! Not sure if it is useful as it could be because it is a LR3.3 DNG conversion.
Feel free to post here!
If you need more stuff, just let me know
Peter
Ill check the raw later. I highlighted some of the bands. There are more (see another one at the very bottom of the shot all the way across).
Here's another example in a thread- look at the bird shot (not linking directly so you can see the original post).
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1022&message=37298036
There is more to this issue that simply getting it. If you need to do any kind of post where you need to brighten the RAW image, the image falls apart super fast. This behavior was documented int he E-3 review at Luminous Landscape:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/E-3-Second.shtml
Look a the section "A more serious issue:"
"An E-3 frame shot at 1600ASA.
Banding is manifesting itself quite obviously in the flat areas of the frame
and there is absolutely no latitude for pushing the exposure in post production."
----
There are things you can do to minimize the impact:
- Avoid high iso shots with areas of dark and bright
- Avoid tungsten light
- Try your darndest to get the exposure right- exact. This is a rule that all cameras benefit from obviously but here you have to really get it. Don't think about under exposing and having to develop up.
- Try out software that does noise reduction and supports banding noise reduction.
Nik's Define 2 does this:
http://www.niksoftware.com/company/usa/entry.php?info=company/pressroom/dfine2.1_announcement.shtml
I have tried it the first time they came out with my e-330 and it did help a bit, though varied by banding situation. But this is "version 2" of that process, so it should work hopefully pretty good for many situations.
- Raist
PS: Thank you Peter for allowing me to use your image.