N
nightfire
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I don't see any problems with the 50 Shift on my P45+ in any shift position. No strange colors etc.What I'd love to know is, how does the Mamiya 50mm Shift work with backs which got microlenses such as the P30+?
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I don't see any problems with the 50 Shift on my P45+ in any shift position. No strange colors etc.What I'd love to know is, how does the Mamiya 50mm Shift work with backs which got microlenses such as the P30+?
I'm using a modified Mamiya 50mm PC lens with my Contax 645 / P30+ combo and it works surprisingly well up until 7-8mm of shift, at which point the corners start to darken, and by 12mm of shift, they go completely black. I assume this is due to the use of microlenses rather than a lack of image circle, but either way, I have been using this lens for 90+% of my photography lately and have grown to love its rendering, even though I've not previously been a fan of Mamiya glass. For my B&W work, I don't mind the vignetting (especially when I use it at night, where the vignetting becomes effectively invisible), but for daylight color work, there's some color shift noticeable after ~5-6mm of shift and you'll probably want to correct it.I don't see any problems with the 50 Shift on my P45+ in any shift position. No strange colors etc.
If you're referring to haze, it depends on the underlying cause. Such as storage issues (microparticles - nicotine, dust, grease etc. - gradually settling on the lens over a long period of time); fungus, degradation of the cement bonding between internal elements etc.I've never experienced had lenses before. Is this something that is permanent or can be cleaned off?
I'm using a modified Mamiya 50mm PC lens with my Contax 645 / P30+ combo and it works surprisingly well up until 7-8mm of shift, at which point the corners start to darken, and by 12mm of shift, they go completely black. I assume this is due to the use of microlenses rather than a lack of image circle, but either way, I have been using this lens for 90+% of my photography lately and have grown to love its rendering, even though I've not previously been a fan of Mamiya glass. For my B&W work, I don't mind the vignetting (especially when I use it at night, where the vignetting becomes effectively invisible), but for daylight color work, there's some color shift noticeable after ~5-6mm of shift and you'll probably want to correct it.
For the money, though, good samples of this lens (I understand there is some variability) represent a very good value on the used market. (As a data point, I paid just $500 for my Zoerk-modified lens early last year, which I believe is less than the cost of the Zoerk modification alone!)
Not surprisingly, Mamiya make a compendium shade that works well for me and used ones can be found on eBay for not much money (compared to, say, the Contax compendium shade). As it happens, I have my camera here at work with me today, so I've posted a photo of it below ... can't recall the part number, though.Thanks, that's what I wanted to know. Does anyone have a lens hood for the 50mm shift, is there even one? Sometimes the flaring can get pretty annoying, especially when I simply forget to shade the lens with my hand. It's one of my favorites, though I often wish it would be a little wider.
thats what AF confirmation is for And split focusing screen...Its hard to nail the focus.
Apart from the 80/1.9, there are two others that I cannot do without - that virtually trap me within the Mamiya 645 system as I cannot find their like in any other MF system! - the 24/4 ULD fisheye, and the the 200/2.8 APO. There are not enough superlatives to describe their performance at and close to wide open, which is where I mainly shoot.Are there other Mamiya manual focus 645 lenses that are worth having, like a wide angle and a tele?