Alignment tools

[usm]

There are three tools for alignment.
The zig-align, which is nice because it is without a laser.
The versalab PARALLEL Laser
And from DT the Laser AlignSystem, i think it is new.

Who’s using such pieces and if not, why?
Well, its clear that one will just need it if you are doing copy or Repro stuff.

Thanks Greetings

 

[Shashin]

With reproduction work a small mirror (1 cm square) placed at the center of the art plane and then align the camera so the lens is reflected in the mirror is usually enough--that is for 6-10ft distances. For smaller distances, use a smaller mirror. That will optically align a camera to an object plane. For horizontal baseboards, a bubble level is usually enough. I have aligned enlarger systems with bubble levels. Microscope system tend to need tighter tolerances, but that is more to do with machine tolerances used in making stages.

 

[jacombo]

My power tool battery broke. How to choose a new one? What are the important things to consider when purchasing to ensure it is good and lasts a long time?

 

[Paul Spinnler]

I am using the DT tool. It is essential for scanning negatives with the Rosenstock 105. You are so close and if you stitch planarity is non negotiable.

I think it is the way to go for negs.

 

[earburner]

My power tool battery broke. How to choose a new one? What are the important things to consider when purchasing to ensure it is good and lasts a long time?

Looks like a spam bot account is warming up for some posts....

 

[Rand47]

I use the focus peaking in my camera. I draw a “box” with thin but very distinct black fine line on a piece of paper. The size of the box is to scale of the item to be copied digitally. Then “low“ focus peaking in red is set. Then manual focus at widest aperture and adjust camera util the entire black-line box is “lit up” by focus peak. Done. Stop down to shooting aperture and go.

Rand

 

[TimoK]

Looks like a spam bot account is warming up for some posts....

I agree and now I see another spam post from a new member.

 

[usm]

I use the focus peaking in my camera. I draw a “box” with thin but very distinct black fine line on a piece of paper. The size of the box is to scale of the item to be copied digitally. Then “low“ focus peaking in red is set. Then manual focus at widest aperture and adjust camera util the entire black-line box is “lit up” by focus peak. Done. Stop down to shooting aperture and go.

Rand

will give it a try. sounds interesting.
thx