Arca-Swiss Cube, which version?

[Greg Haag]

I am considering getting the Arca-Swiss Cube, but not sure which version? When looking on one of the photography equipment websites, here is a cross section of options it would only let me list 4 but there appear to be more versions. I will use this for landscape & architectural with either a technical camera or Fuji GFX 100s. If anyone has gone done this road and can provide some clarity that would be great!
Thanks,
Greg

 

[Paul Spinnler]

I got the clickpan version recently - not sure if it is the one on the right. It is practical for panoramic stitching and very fast to operate. You need to know the nodal points of your lenses, but for example with a 40 HR you have a perfect archi / landscape lens which can also be used to create wide landscape shots via panoramic stitching. Julian Calverley just uses a 40 HR with nodal point rail from RRS ...

 

[Steve Hendrix]

Greg - My quick take (FWIW):

There are several selection processes. The top of the Cube and the feature set of the Cube.

The most universal top is the Classic top, which accepts the widest variety of plates.

The Flip Lock is valuable if you have a single QR type, then it can be really dialed in to that plate. The benefit is that if you see the Flip Lock closed, you know it is locked. With the Classic, you can’t tell, you would have to attempt to turn it just to make sure it is tight.

The Monoball Fix works like a shortcut Flip Lock (simpler, but has the same if it is in locked position, it is locked). The downside is the plates are proprietary, you’d need the same plate for every camera. And they would not fit any other manufacturer tripod head, only Arca Swiss.

Many people prefer to remove the tops and install a RRS top with a large locking lever.

I like the Classic top. I’m just old school that way, and even if the Flip Lock or the RRS Lock Lever is in place, and I should just trust it, I have trust issues. So the Classic top forces me to check.

There are standard Cubes, geared pan Cubes, and the new ClicPan Cube (which is a favorite of Brad Kaye). previously, Brad was using a detented leveling head that was nowhere near as precise as the new ClicPan Cube.

There are many Cube users here, I am sure they will have valuable input.

We stock Arca Swiss, and if we are out of stock on any models we drop ship direct to you from Arca Swiss if ordered through CI. And free shipping on orders over $1,000 (which covers all Cubes). We are also not obligated to collect sales tax from any states except GA/FL/AR/CO.

https://digitalback.com/collections/arca-swiss-heads


Steve Hendrix/CI

 

[Greg Haag]

Thanks for your insight Steve, in looking at your website and left to my own devices, I think this is the one I would get. What are your thoughts?

 

[Greg Haag]

I got the clickpan version recently - not sure if it is the one on the right. It is practical for panoramic stitching and very fast to operate. You need to know the nodal points of your lenses, but for example with a 40 HR you have a perfect archi / landscape lens which can also be used to create wide landscape shots via panoramic stitching. Julian Calverley just uses a 40 HR with nodal point rail from RRS ...

Thank you for sharing Paul!

 

[Steve Hendrix]

Thanks for your insight Steve, in looking at your website and left to my own devices, I think this is the one I would get. What are your thoughts?

My only questions there Greg, are generally when using an altered top pan (geared or clicPan) that you have a clear identification of why you would want the Geared Pan or the clicPan. The clicPan is great for nodal stitching. If you don't do that - or much of it - then ....

The top Geared Pan fulfills a similar function that the Cube provides in general, which is precision (vs non-geared heads). Being able to precisely dial in that adjustment just works for so many photographers. And the top geared pan also allows you to release the gear if you're in a hurry.


Steve Hendrix/CI

 

[Greg Haag]

My only questions there Greg, are generally when using an altered top pan (geared or clicPan) that you have a clear identification of why you would want the Geared Pan or the clicPan. The clicPan is great for nodal stitching. If you don't do that - or much of it - then ....

The top Geared Pan fulfills a similar function that the Cube provides in general, which is precision (vs non-geared heads). Being able to precisely dial in that adjustment just works for so many photographers. And the top geared pan also allows you to release the gear if you're in a hurry.


Steve Hendrix/CI

Steve, I would defer to you, you know all my gear. When you have time if you will send me an email invoice on the one you recommend, I am good to go. I virtually never do any nodal stitching, almost any pan done on my combo.

 

[Mexecutioner]

Greg,

I have the exact same one you posted the screenshot of. I like the classic knob, allows me ot use different types of plates. The geared panning is a game changer, I really find that feature super useful.

 

[Smoothjazz]

I have had the quick release fall apart in the field- very hard to put back together!!
For that reason I like the reliable classic version.

 

[Smoothjazz]

Can you elaborate on how the geared pan mechanism works?
How is it better than the older model?

 

[Greg Haag]

Greg,

I have the exact same one you posted the screenshot of. I like the classic knob, allows me ot use different types of plates. The geared panning is a game changer, I really find that feature super useful.

Rodrigo, that is great to hear! I just ordered one from Steve a few minutes ago. BTW, I loved your shot of the city with all the lights from cars. I never seem to get the results on those shots to look as clean as yours did, my headlights and taillights seem messy. I hope all is well!

 

[Mexecutioner]

Thanks Greg, little trial and error. I found that about 2 second exposures blend in frame averaging nicely and look smooth. I also don't wait for the sky to be completely dark as the details are lost and the car lights end up being to bright and the rest too dark. Take care!

 

[John Black]

Seems like you've got one picked out, but FWIW, I like the geared pan version. I previously had the non-geared pan version. When tightening the upper pan, its pan position would shift slightly. Maybe .5º of a change. If using long tele's with a narrow field of view, like 4º, that .5º would fundamentally change the composition. So it became an iterative game of trying to over-pan a bit to compensate for the shift in pan when tightened. The geared version does away with all that fuss.

Mine has the knob-clamp. Works fine, but sometimes equipment hangs over the clamp and hinders access to the knob. And/or in colder weather, it can take a bit of extra finger effort to get things loosened. Since I have bunch of different plates, the traditional knob clamp makes more sense (for me).

 

[Greg Haag]

Thanks Greg, little trial and error. I found that about 2 second exposures blend in frame averaging nicely and look smooth. I also don't wait for the sky to be completely dark as the details are lost and the car lights end up being to bright and the rest too dark. Take care!

I have never tried this with my IQ4 and frame averaging, I will have to give that a try. Yours was a great image!

 

[Rand47]

Another opinion. I bought whatever they call the “base model” these days. No geared pan on top. Screw clamp.
BUT, I had Precision Camera Works swap out the miserable Arca clamp with a Really Right Stuff lever clamp (they’ve done this for me on both my Cube and D4 heads). When I do panoramas with my GFX 100, getting a proper overlap is simple. I turn on the 3x3 frame grid lines on the EVF/LCD and use the 1/3 line as my “line up indicator“ from shot to shot. No need for geared anything, or click anything and I have $500 bucks in my pocket.

I found the Arca clamp to be a total pain in the butt. The RRS lever clamps are top notch, easy to use, and VERY secure.
And being a Trek fan, I could not resist… (of course).

Rand

 

[Greg Haag]

Another opinion. I bought whatever they call the “base model” these days. No geared pan on top. Screw clamp.
BUT, I had Precision Camera Works swap out the miserable Arca clamp with a Really Right Stuff lever clamp (they’ve done this for me on both my Cube and D4 heads). When I do panoramas with my GFX 100, getting a proper overlap is simple. I turn on the 3x3 frame grid lines on the EVF/LCD and use the 1/3 line as my “line up indicator“ from shot to shot. No need for geared anything, or click anything and I have $500 bucks in my pocket.

I found the Arca clamp to be a total pain in the butt. The RRS lever clamps are top notch, easy to use, and VERY secure.
And being a Trek fan, I could not resist… (of course).

Rand

Thank you Rand! That is a beautiful image!

 

[jng]

Seems like you've got one picked out, but FWIW, I like the geared pan version. I previously had the non-geared pan version. When tightening the upper pan, its pan position would shift slightly. Maybe .5º of a change. If using long tele's with a narrow field of view, like 4º, that .5º would fundamentally change the composition. So it became an iterative game of trying to over-pan a bit to compensate for the shift in pan when tightened. The geared version does away with all that fuss.

Mine has the knob-clamp. Works fine, but sometimes equipment hangs over the clamp and hinders access to the knob. And/or in colder weather, it can take a bit of extra finger effort to get things loosened. Since I have bunch of different plates, the traditional knob clamp makes more sense (for me).

Totally resonate with this - precisely composing a capture when using a long lens can be challenging with the original, non-geared version. A few years back I *almost* traded in my Cube for the geared-panning head version, but in a rare moment of restraint (not entirely rational) decided to save a few dollars and keep my original Cube, on which the original clamp was replaced with RRS lever clamp, installed by Bob Watkins at Precision Camera Works. I may yet succumb to the temptation...

John

 

[algrove]

I have the classic one and it used to be my go to for Tech cam/Phase and 100S. PM Greg