I have indeed used my XF/IQ4150 for astrophotography as well as the IQ4150 on a Cambo tech camera with a Canon lens plate. It does work but there are some considerations. Eventually I switched to a dedicated astro camera (I use the ASI6200MM Pro) which has the same sensor as the IQ4150 in a 35mm full frame format.
The IQ4150 IR cut filter seems to be stronger than many other cameras. In general I tended to get better results with my Sony a7r2 than the IQ. Nebulae have a lot of ionized hydrogen (which is red) and the IQ didn't have as much of the dark red response. The IQ was just hard to get good color results.
The IQ has a much larger sensor than most telescopes' image circle so you need to carefully select a scope with a large enough image circle - and that means more expensive too. I ended up with the Takahashi FSQ106
The next challenge is physically mounting the camera onto the scope since no one supports the XF/Mamiya lens mount. I ended up using a Fotodiox Mamiya to Pentax 67 adapter and then a Takahashi Pentax 67 adapter. I also had to have a spacer/adapter made to finish it up (not as scary as it sounds, Precise Parts specializes in custom astro adapters).
Once you get it mounted you have to control everything manually.
None of the astro image processing programs understand the IQ file format so you end up processing everything in C1 and stacking manually in Photoshop. It can be done but it's a pain
As I said I eventually switched to a true astro camera for a number of reasons:
Software support - all the software that you use to control a telescope mount understands astro cameras (and doesn't understand the IQ). That allows you to implement things like autofocus and plate solving (which lets the computer find the desired target for you). The software also manages the entire imaging sequence in terms of exposure time and number of frames
Astro cameras have cooled sensors which controls and reduces noise
They are made to easily attach to a telescope so you are less likely to need custom adapters
All the processing programs know how to read astro camera files. Note that they produce a .FITS format as their RAW file so you do need to use an astro program for processing. I use Deep Sky Stacker to initially process and stack the photos and then move to Photoshop. Many astrophotographers use PixInsight but it is a much more complicated program.
I choose to use a monochrome version of the ASI6200MM and use a filter wheel to insert various filters between the telescope and the camera. Standard filters are red, green and blue to produce a natural RGB image and hydrogen, oxygen and sulfur to pick up specific colors of ionized gas.
I recently did an online presentation for our local camera club explaining the journey from simple to complex astrophotography. It was recorded and is available at
https://utahdesertremote.com/robotic-remote-astrophotography/. I also have a few other blog posts and explanations on that website.
The remote astrophotography business we're setting up (Utah Desert Remote Observatories) also now offers the ability to rent imaging time on our telescope so people can dip their toes into astrophotography; basically we provide the training wheels. You can see more about it at
https://utahdesertremote.com/the-udro-imaging-experience/
