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Coming back to Leica

Don Libby

Well-known member
I keep forgetting to mention this. I have a Lowa 15mm and Mitakon Speedmaster 90mm both of which have the slots milled into the flanges for 6-bit coding.
 

algrove

Well-known member
Traveling right now, but on FM Fred mentioned a paint he used to 6 bit code lenses so that it would not rub off. It worked. I coded my VM 75/1.5 as a Summilux 75/1.4 and it works flawlessly.
 

Godfrey

Well-known member
Traveling right now, but on FM Fred mentioned a paint he used to 6 bit code lenses so that it would not rub off. It worked. I coded my VM 75/1.5 as a Summilux 75/1.4 and it works flawlessly.
If the lens mount (or mount adapter) has the flange recesses, any good lacquer paint should work well. I have lacquer paint pens in black and white to do such marking. Once painted, and dried properly, it never wears away and can only be removed with nail polish remover (aka acetone).

G
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
I decide to send my Tri-Elmar 28-35-50 in to have it coded. I began the conversation with Leica on April 9, getting confirmation of receipt on April 19. I received information that the lens was being sent to the factory on April 22. I also received an estimate for the work requested around this same time. I received an email this morning stating the work has been completed and the lens is on it way home to me. Total cost was less than the estimate coming in at $284.24. All my lenses are now properly coded.
 

Knorp

Well-known member
I did a DIY job on my 3.4/135mm and 1.0/50mm lenses swapping the original flanges for the photographer_in_mask 6-bit coded flanges.
Pretty straight forward procedure for the 3.4/135mm but it caused some nerve wracking moments for the 1.0/50mm.
First, I dropped two of the very tiny screws to the floor and had to use a magnet to recover them from the grey-ish carpet.
Second, I couldn't get the screws in because the inner structure was not close enough to the flange. For that I had to adjust the focus ring.
Oh well, now I have to check if the whole shebang is still properly aligned.
 

scho

Well-known member
I am having a problem finding the right size screwdriver bit to fit the very shallow groove in the small flathead screws of the Voigtlander 50/2 APO Lanthar. I have the replacement coded lens plate but getting the original plate off is going to be an issue.
 

Don Libby

Well-known member
I am having a problem finding the right size screwdriver bit to fit the very shallow groove in the small flathead screws of the Voigtlander 50/2 APO Lanthar. I have the replacement coded lens plate but getting the original plate off is going to be an issue.
Go to post #32 - posted a link to a toolcut kit that has severed very well with both Leica and Voigtlander. I also used it to replace a battery in my Dell laptop! Well with the money

don
 

scho

Well-known member
Thanks Don. I already have that toolkit, but unfortunately there is no bit of the correct size to fit the flathead screws on the 50/2 APO Lanthar. I asked Steve Gandy at Cameraquest and he said that he does not recommend using 3rd party lens plates. I'm going to use the Akara template and paint the code on the existing lens plate for this lens.

*
 

ptomsu

Workshop Member
I decide to send my Tri-Elmar 28-35-50 in to have it coded. I began the conversation with Leica on April 9, getting confirmation of receipt on April 19. I received information that the lens was being sent to the factory on April 22. I also received an estimate for the work requested around this same time. I received an email this morning stating the work has been completed and the lens is on it way home to me. Total cost was less than the estimate coming in at $284.24. All my lenses are now properly coded.
Mine are all coded as well :);):)
 
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