Knorp
Well-known member
And how do you switch off
:banghead:something called electronic or digital image stabilization
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:banghead:something called electronic or digital image stabilization
As I understand it, that applies to the movie/video image stabilization setting.And how do you switch off
:banghead:
That's correct, and it also introduces a slight crop to the video format, so that it has some space to move around in. There's actually also a fourth type of stabilisation available, also electronic and also for video, and that's electronic image stabilisation (EIS) in post production, which crops the video a little bit more.As I understand it, that applies to the movie/video image stabilization setting.
It’s one of the options. :grin:
Many thanks Jorgen, much appreciated. :salute:That's correct, and it also introduces a slight crop to the video format, so that it has some space to move around in. There's actually also a fourth type of stabilisation available, also electronic and also for video, and that's electronic image stabilisation (EIS) in post production, which crops the video a little bit more.
No not four ... :shocked:That's correct, and it also introduces a slight crop to the video format, so that it has some space to move around in. There's actually also a fourth type of stabilisation available, also electronic and also for video, and that's electronic image stabilisation (EIS) in post production, which crops the video a little bit more.
Okay, so there is S-IS (Still picture) and M-IS (Movie) ... :facesmack:As I understand it, that applies to the movie/video image stabilization setting.
It’s one of the options. :grin:
Well Bart, in combined camera/lens there are 3.No not four ... :shocked:
It’s electronic OR digital image stabilization, right ?
Correct, and here's a guy who explains it much better than I would to. He uses DaVinci Resolve 16 from Blackmagic, a very good and fully functional video editing program that is free unless one needs the Studio version. There are also dedicated stabilisation apps around, some of them are free too.Well Bart, in combined camera/lens there are 3.
However Jorgen pointed to a fourth technique used in video post production, no? Maybe we can ask Jorgen to provide more context and detail.
This is a PP software-thingy alright, undoubtedly very useful but still ...Correct, and here's a guy who explains it much better than I would to. He uses DaVinci Resolve 16 from Blackmagic, a very good and fully functional video editing program that is free unless one needs the Studio version. There are also dedicated stabilisation apps around, some of them are free too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0wh5zZXgvw
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/uk/products/davinciresolve/
It's important also to point out that video is a totaly different animal from stills. Getting the footage is important, but it's with the editing the real work starts, and timewise, we often talk about multiples of the actual filming.This is a PP software-thingy alright, undoubtedly very useful but still ...
I'll stick to my 'hardware' settings for lens, stills and, something I never use, the m-word ... :grin:
But thank you for pointing this out and providing the links, Jørgen !
Best regards.
NSIDE Image Stabilization:
Olympus takes us on a geek’s tour of what makes IS work
by Dave Etchells posted Wednesday, July 29, 2020 at 6:49 PM EDT
https://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2020/07/29/inside-image-stabilization-a-geeks-tour-of-how-it-works-with-olympus
Lots of detail. :clap:
For starters, quote:
" Image Stabilization: The Basics
There are two main types of image stabilization: in-body image stabilization (often abbreviated to IBIS) or optical image stabilization (aka in-lens or lens-based IS). Each works to correct the fundamental problem caused by camera shake -- the image projected by the lens moving across the sensor surface during exposure. (There's also something called electronic or digital image stabilization, based on simply shifting the location of data readout on the face of the sensor. Electronic image stabilization can introduce motion artifacts that IBIS and lens-based IS avoids.)"
I think I have to pay more attention to his last point and maybe switch off electronic or digital image stabilization in my Olympus cameras for certain scenarios? :facesmack:
Well, reflecting on why I bought my first modern MFT camera, the Olympus OM-D E-M5, was its 5-axis IBIS and sensor IQ that finally was up to snuff. I had gotten the inferior Olympus E-P2 with attachable EVF before that to gain some experience with the EVF to be used on a Leica M camera that in the end I never acquired.
Seems like an obvious sensor for an E-M1X II. G9 II? It won't be able to output the 5.7K that Panasonic has claimed for the GH6, but maybe they have ordered a larger, multi aspect ratio version of the same sensor?Sony Semiconductor reveals 21MP stacked CMOS Four Thirds sensor capable of 120 fps full-width readout
The IMX472 appears to be the first stacked CMOS sensor for Four Thirds-sized cameras and promises up to 120 fps shooting of 12-bit stills.www.dpreview.com
Interesting if used in an Olympus camera (or whatever the new name is).
As good as the 4/300 Pro is, I really never liked the fact that it is only a prime. Especially for wildlife the flexibility one gets with a zoom is just so much better. I once left Fuji and the great 100-400 for that 4/300 Olympus with my Oly cameras. And I was not happy - has nothing to do with IQ etc, bit has all to do with flexibility from a great zoom you get while shooting.
Olympus E-M1MarkIII + M.300mm F4.0.
The Nikon equivalent lens, the 180-400mm f/4 will with the built-in TC activated will on a Z7 II in crop mode (19.5MP) give a reach of 840mm (f/5.6 on what is now an APS-C sensor), more or less as much as the Zuiko lens without the TC activated. Still, the Zuiko can be extended to 1,000mm eqv. when needed. The Nikkor is near twice as expensive and twice as heavy as the Zuiko. Since I can buy two Olympus E-M1 III bodies for the price of one Nikon Z7 II, I don't really see the disadvantage with the lens only being able to mount on an Olympus body. They are cheap, reliable, and render excellent image quality.Anyway there would be a great wildlife zoom available from Olympus - the 150-400 - but that lens is at a cost many of us do not want to pay for such a lens that is limited to the m43 system and only plays its full benefits in combination with an Olympus Pro body.