Finding the right repro setup for Hasselblad 907x

[usm]

Hi!
Want to share my thoughts about a repro setup based on a Hasselblad 907x with the CFVii50c back. First, I know that there are higher resolution cameras (GFX, H6, PhaseOne) but I have the 907x - so this is the starting point. I also have a ArcaSwiss Factum which gives me 15mm movements. I think that a autofocus is not that important because there is time to do that manually. The main question is; Do I have to use flashes or LED lights? Until now we were using flashes to black out the room light. But for flash I have to use a lens with a shutter. I think that a Broncolor LED F160 with a CRI of 97+ would be a good decision (used with a big soft box like 30x180 (1'x5.9') or 30x120 (1'x3.9').

Regarding the Factum: Do you think it is possible/useful to shift the back to get around a 100mp image. Can I reach the FADGI/ISO/METAMORFOZE levels with a stitched image?

Which lenses are possible:
1. Hasselblad XCD Marco 3.5/120 - costs about 3.900 Euros. Easy to use and possibilities to do focus stacking if there are 3D Objects.

2. Hasselblad HC Macro 4/120 - cost about 4.750 Euros (there are some used but with more than 30000 shots). The package is bigger because of the Adapter and there is NO autofocus and it is NOT possible to use the lens on a HTS Adapter for stitching. I could use the lens with a borrowed H6D to get higher resolution if necessary.

3. Hasselblad V Makro-Planar CFi - costs about 1.200 Euros (if I can find one). No autofocus but useable on the fact with shift. Needs LED light because the 907x can't use the lens shutter.

4. Since I have a Factum, I am thinking of a 100 to 120 mm lens from Rodenstock or Schneider Kreuznach - this is the biggest "black hole" I have.
Which lenses are useful for art reproduction?
Apo-Macro-Sironar digital 120 mm f/5,6
The ALPA Makro Switar 5,6/105 mm is just for Alpa - right?
Schneider Apo-Digitar 4,5/90 mm
Schneider Apo-Digitar 5,6/120 mm


There is also a new FADGI/ISO target:

Does anyone know that https://deltae.picturae.com will update to that target?


Thanks for helping me to decide!
Greetings. Mario

 

[Steve Hendrix]

Hi!
Want to share my thoughts about a repro setup based on a Hasselblad 907x with the CFVii50c back. First, I know that there are higher resolution cameras (GFX, H6, PhaseOne) but I have the 907x - so this is the starting point. I also have a ArcaSwiss Factum which gives me 15mm movements. I think that a autofocus is not that important because there is time to do that manually. The main question is; Do I have to use flashes or LED lights? Until now we were using flashes to black out the room light. But for flash I have to use a lens with a shutter. I think that a Broncolor LED F160 with a CRI of 97+ would be a good decision (used with a big soft box like 30x180 (1'x5.9') or 30x120 (1'x3.9').

Regarding the Factum: Do you think it is possible/useful to shift the back to get around a 100mp image. Can I reach the FADGI/ISO/METAMORFOZE levels with a stitched image?

Which lenses are possible:
1. Hasselblad XCD Marco 3.5/120 - costs about 3.900 Euros. Easy to use and possibilities to do focus stacking if there are 3D Objects.

2. Hasselblad HC Macro 4/120 - cost about 4.750 Euros (there are some used but with more than 30000 shots). The package is bigger because of the Adapter and there is NO autofocus and it is NOT possible to use the lens on a HTS Adapter for stitching. I could use the lens with a borrowed H6D to get higher resolution if necessary.

3. Hasselblad V Makro-Planar CFi - costs about 1.200 Euros (if I can find one). No autofocus but useable on the fact with shift. Needs LED light because the 907x can't use the lens shutter.

4. Since I have a Factum, I am thinking of a 100 to 120 mm lens from Rodenstock or Schneider Kreuznach - this is the biggest "black hole" I have.
Which lenses are useful for art reproduction?
Apo-Macro-Sironar digital 120 mm f/5,6
The ALPA Makro Switar 5,6/105 mm is just for Alpa - right?
Schneider Apo-Digitar 4,5/90 mm
Schneider Apo-Digitar 5,6/120 mm


There is also a new FADGI/ISO target:

Does anyone know that https://deltae.picturae.com will update to that target?


Thanks for helping me to decide!
Greetings. Mario

The Alpa Macro Switar is based on the Rodenstock HR Digaron Macro 5.6/105mm FLOAT Lens. This lens is available in Arca Swiss R Mount (in our USA price catalog, it is part # 50408001). I don't know the international part #, but it often is very similar to our part numbers in the USA, sometimes a 0 is added to the beginning of the sku string.


Steve Hendrix/CI

 

[PSS]

I still don't trust LED 100% when it comes to CRI but they have come a long way. there are much better options then Broncolor LED. more light, better CRI. aputure are doing really amazing stuff but there are others as well. I still think flash might be a better solution though. more light and more consistent color.
I have the XCD 120 and it is great. great optical quality, easy to use and relatively compact. there are some 3rd party rings available, I have 2, they work but it is pretty easy to see that the lenses are not made with those rings in mind. IQ takes a hit. but they work.

 

[Godfrey]

I do a lot of low-grade 'repro' work in digitizing negatives, transparencies, and small prints. None of it for pay, I might add, so the end results only have to satisfy me, not a client.

For me, 50Mpixel is probably overkill.

I use a Novoflex Magic copy stand, and a V-system Makro-Planar 120mm f/4 fitted to the 907x via the XV Adapter tube. (I've also used the Leitz Focusing Bellows-R + Macro-Elmar-R 100mm f/4 very successfully, attached via a Fotodiox Pro mount adapter). For lighting, I use a pair of inexpensive LED lights for prints and a flat-panel LED light box for transparencies/negatives. Depending on the format of the capture target negative, I've had to add up to 90mm in extension rings behind the lens to fill the frame on occasion. The eshutter works just fine for this work, and I operate the camera tethered using Phocus.

Probably not what your needs are, but this setup produces very nice results for me.

G

 

[Alkibiades]

Hi!
Want to share my thoughts about a repro setup based on a Hasselblad 907x with the CFVii50c back. First, I know that there are higher resolution cameras (GFX, H6, PhaseOne) but I have the 907x - so this is the starting point. I also have a ArcaSwiss Factum which gives me 15mm movements. I think that a autofocus is not that important because there is time to do that manually. The main question is; Do I have to use flashes or LED lights? Until now we were using flashes to black out the room light. But for flash I have to use a lens with a shutter. I think that a Broncolor LED F160 with a CRI of 97+ would be a good decision (used with a big soft box like 30x180 (1'x5.9') or 30x120 (1'x3.9').

Regarding the Factum: Do you think it is possible/useful to shift the back to get around a 100mp image. Can I reach the FADGI/ISO/METAMORFOZE levels with a stitched image?

Which lenses are possible:
1. Hasselblad XCD Marco 3.5/120 - costs about 3.900 Euros. Easy to use and possibilities to do focus stacking if there are 3D Objects.

2. Hasselblad HC Macro 4/120 - cost about 4.750 Euros (there are some used but with more than 30000 shots). The package is bigger because of the Adapter and there is NO autofocus and it is NOT possible to use the lens on a HTS Adapter for stitching. I could use the lens with a borrowed H6D to get higher resolution if necessary.

3. Hasselblad V Makro-Planar CFi - costs about 1.200 Euros (if I can find one). No autofocus but useable on the fact with shift. Needs LED light because the 907x can't use the lens shutter.

4. Since I have a Factum, I am thinking of a 100 to 120 mm lens from Rodenstock or Schneider Kreuznach - this is the biggest "black hole" I have.
Which lenses are useful for art reproduction?
Apo-Macro-Sironar digital 120 mm f/5,6
The ALPA Makro Switar 5,6/105 mm is just for Alpa - right?
Schneider Apo-Digitar 4,5/90 mm
Schneider Apo-Digitar 5,6/120 mm


There is also a new FADGI/ISO target:

Does anyone know that https://deltae.picturae.com will update to that target?


Thanks for helping me to decide!
Greetings. Mario

simply take the macros from schneider -rodenstock: 120 mm, they are simply great and for that work better than hasseblad macros, cost 1000-1500 euro,
or apo digitar macro 80 mm- even cheaper, still a great macro lens,
or if you dont make real macro take Apo digitar 5,6-100 mm. large image circle with gerat sharpeness ( better than 4,5-90 mm)

 

[Shashin]

I would start by determining your output. If you are going to print and using a 44" printer, your 50MP resolution is plenty for that reproduction size. Are you thinking of going beyond that?

 

[ErikKaffehr]

Hi!
Want to share my thoughts about a repro setup based on a Hasselblad 907x with the CFVii50c back. First, I know that there are higher resolution cameras (GFX, H6, PhaseOne) but I have the 907x - so this is the starting point. I also have a ArcaSwiss Factum which gives me 15mm movements. I think that a autofocus is not that important because there is time to do that manually. The main question is; Do I have to use flashes or LED lights? Until now we were using flashes to black out the room light. But for flash I have to use a lens with a shutter. I think that a Broncolor LED F160 with a CRI of 97+ would be a good decision (used with a big soft box like 30x180 (1'x5.9') or 30x120 (1'x3.9').

Regarding the Factum: Do you think it is possible/useful to shift the back to get around a 100mp image. Can I reach the FADGI/ISO/METAMORFOZE levels with a stitched image?

Which lenses are possible:
1. Hasselblad XCD Marco 3.5/120 - costs about 3.900 Euros. Easy to use and possibilities to do focus stacking if there are 3D Objects.

2. Hasselblad HC Macro 4/120 - cost about 4.750 Euros (there are some used but with more than 30000 shots). The package is bigger because of the Adapter and there is NO autofocus and it is NOT possible to use the lens on a HTS Adapter for stitching. I could use the lens with a borrowed H6D to get higher resolution if necessary.

3. Hasselblad V Makro-Planar CFi - costs about 1.200 Euros (if I can find one). No autofocus but useable on the fact with shift. Needs LED light because the 907x can't use the lens shutter.

4. Since I have a Factum, I am thinking of a 100 to 120 mm lens from Rodenstock or Schneider Kreuznach - this is the biggest "black hole" I have.
Which lenses are useful for art reproduction?
Apo-Macro-Sironar digital 120 mm f/5,6
The ALPA Makro Switar 5,6/105 mm is just for Alpa - right?
Schneider Apo-Digitar 4,5/90 mm
Schneider Apo-Digitar 5,6/120 mm


There is also a new FADGI/ISO target:

Does anyone know that https://deltae.picturae.com will update to that target?


Thanks for helping me to decide!
Greetings. Mario

What reproduction scale would you need?

Best regards
Erik

Best regards
Erik

 

[usm]

What reproduction scale would you need?

Best regards
Erik

Best regards
Erik

It’s about repro’s for a museum, so the paintings or whatever are, let’s say, from A4 up to 2x2m. Mostly flat art.
The question is how to get the different sizes more or less fitted on the Sensor. They need a small color checker on the side. The output will be print as a reference for later publishing.

Hope that answers your question.

Best regards
Mario

 

[usm]

simply take the macros from schneider -rodenstock: 120 mm, they are simply great and for that work better than hasseblad macros, cost 1000-1500 euro,
or apo digitar macro 80 mm- even cheaper, still a great macro lens,
or if you dont make real macro take Apo digitar 5,6-100 mm. large image circle with gerat sharpeness ( better than 4,5-90 mm)

I saw you are selling a Schneider Apo Digitar 5,6/100 mm. Is this a lens you would recommend for a repro setup?
Would such a lens also good for "standard" landscape/architecture photography?

 

[Alkibiades]

yes, afcourse. The lens is very sharp even wide open. I own some new copies of this lens and I use two of them for my cameras also.
I compared the Apo Digitar 100 mm against the well known 4,5-90 mm and the 100 mm was much sharper wide open, has much bigger image circle, therefore much better corner performance at the corners whwn shifted much. I made the test on my Fuji GFX100S and the lens work fine on the 100 MP. movements till 35 mm would be possible- the only restriction come from the fuji camera body...
for repro the lens will be also great,
as the whole Apo digitar line the lens has no distortion, very high resolution power also in close distance, mounted in the focusing mout allows very fine focusing that is gerat in close up work. As you know componos- apo componon lenses are superior in close distance and this Apo Digitar come from this lensdesign, but with latest couting and high standart mounting for digital work,

 

[usm]

I have to ask Arca Swiss for the price of a R mount...

 

[Steve Hendrix]

I have to ask Arca Swiss for the price of a R mount...

In the USA, it is $1,205 for lenses 23mm -80mm. For lenses 90mm - 210mm, it is $1,660 (typically the longer lenses need a spacer and that accounts for the extra cost).


Steve Hendrix/CI

 

[Alkibiades]

I have to ask Arca Swiss for the price of a R mount...

In Europe 1200 euro for lenses 90-210 mm, that the actual price on arca-shop.de website.

 

[usm]

What is the closest focus distance of the Schneider Apo Digitar 5,6/100 mm and how is the performance at the the closest distance?
Is this lens also a good “walk around” 100mm lens?

My SK Apo-Digitar 35mm XL is not the best when the subject is to close.

Thanks

 

[Alkibiades]

You can go close as you want, there is no fobidden distance.
As written the lens based on apo componon, where the apo digitar 35 mm is a classic wide angle design based on biogon/super angulon that is not made for closer distance than 3 meters.

 

[Alkibiades]

Schneider use lovely schott glass that gives you very nice and smooth rendering.

 

[usm]

I will change to your lens selling post...

 

[ErikKaffehr]

It’s about repro’s for a museum, so the paintings or whatever are, let’s say, from A4 up to 2x2m. Mostly flat art.
The question is how to get the different sizes more or less fitted on the Sensor. They need a small color checker on the side. The output will be print as a reference for later publishing.

Hope that answers your question.

Best regards
Mario

My hunch may be is to go with the X-series macro. The V-series lens, that I actually have is not recommended for large objects.

The H-series macro is said to be good.

Modern lenses would normally have floating elements that allow for flat focal plane over their intended focusing range.

Best regards
Erik

 

[FloatingLens]

Old-school S-Planar 5,6/120 can be had for around 300 EUR. Some people argue it performs even better than the updated CF (at a much smaller price). I can't verify that, but I have to admit even the old formula holds up really well with my CFV II 50c. Not truly apochromatic like the much newer Apo-Makro-Planar for Contax 645, but it comes surprisingly close.

 

[jng]

Old-school S-Planar 5,6/120 can be had for around 300 EUR. Some people argue it performs even better than the updated CF (at a much smaller price). I can't verify that, but I have to admit even the old formula holds up really well with my CFV II 50c. Not truly apochromatic like the much newer Apo-Makro-Planar for Contax 645, but it comes surprisingly close.

At one point I owned the V series CF 4/120 Makro-Planar, CF 5.6/135 Makro-Planar, and 5.6/120 S-Planar. I found them all to be excellent for what I do (mainly floral macros, very rarely reproduction) but I've since culled the herd and now own just the S-Planar. 'Nuff said? I managed to convince myself that the S-Planar is just a bit sharper than the 120 Makro-Planar, which in turn seemed just a bit sharper than the 135 Makro-Planar. But the differences were slight (and perhaps only in my head). I typically shoot the S-Planar wide open for focus stacking and have not noticed much if any chromatic aberration on the 150 Mp IQ4 150. I can't comment on how these old Zeiss lenses compare with the SK and Rodenstock lenses mentioned in this thread, especially for reproduction use cases, so as always YMMV. But for my purposes I'm pretty happy.

John