The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

Hasselblad XCD 28P Focus Shift

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
I don't want to clutter the Fun With ... thread, so here is a test (performed twice!) that demonstrates focus shift on the XCD 28P.

I knew that lens align would come in handy one day..,

This is focused (AF and manually checked with zoom) wide open - f/4. Note the Moiré on the lettering. (Overkill tripod, no IBIS, 2 sec delay, ISO 100)


The same but shot at f/8


And refocused manually while stopped down to f/8


I'm not imagining this, right? What I've not been able to do is figure out exactly where that second shot is really focused. But the point remains that stopped down focusing is necessary to get the sharpest results at f/8 with this lens. Now this is at 8 feet. At infinity? Not sure yet.

Matt

Oh, look at this. That stack of music in the background...

Focus at f/4


Focus at f/4, shot at f/8


Focus at f/8, shot at f/8


So clear back focus in the focus wide open, but shoot at f/8 shot (the second one).
It's less pronounced in the second set of shots - I suppose my manual stopped down focusing isn't perfect. I'll shoot a bunch more tests.

Yep, it persists.

Focus at f/4, shoot at f/8


Focus at f/8, shoot at f/8
 
Last edited:

wattsy

Well-known member
I hope I haven't opened a can of worms by raising the question of focus shift in the other thread earlier today. As I wrote in the other thread, I don't expect perfection from the 28P. It isn't marketed as a landscape lens (the marketing implies that the lens is for urban street shots and the like) nor is it priced at the same level as the V or original XCD lenses. That said, it is a little disappointing that the focus shift is so marked and at the aperture that I use most often. What makes it awkward for me is that I have the 907x without the accessory grip and there is no option to use stopped down focussing in that configuration. I've only had the lens a few days and have already got somewhat used to making allowances for the focus shift by deliberately focusing closer than I would otherwise do so for a given desired DOF (the photograph of the tree below was when I first became suspicious of focus shift because I knew I had focussed on the front of the tree yet it is the branches further back that are in optimum focus). Deliberately focussing a bit closer seems to work okay but it does feel a bit of a fudge and something I thought I'd left behind with some Leica M lenses prior to that company becoming wise to the phenomenon.




 
Last edited:

darr

Well-known member
I'm currently on the 28P waiting list, as my gear budget is less generous than it once was, so I appreciate the price tag.
Nonetheless, I'll make the most of it, and I genuinely value hearing from those who share their experiences with the 28P lens.

@wattsy - the tree above is lovely! The colors are superb.
 

wattsy

Well-known member
so I appreciate the price tag.
Yes, I do too and the small size and low weight is also a distinct advantage for me (I often take the camera on fairly lengthy hikes). Overall, I'm pleased with the lens so far.
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Oh, it’s still my most used XCD lens. I always check focus manually, and stopping down doesn’t make it any more difficult.
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
Matt, quick question. How are you forcing the lens to stay at F8 during focus? Use of the DOF preview button? I am assuming the lens will always be wide open otherwise.

Thanks
Paul
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Matt, quick question. How are you forcing the lens to stay at F8 during focus? Use of the DOF preview button? I am assuming the lens will always be wide open otherwise.

Thanks
Paul
That's the only way I know how to do it. Hold down the DoF Preview button while zoomed in and focus manually using peaking.
 

hcubell

Well-known member
That's the only way I know how to do it. Hold down the DoF Preview button while zoomed in and focus manually using peaking.
I thought that focus peaking turns off if you go into magnified live view to manually focus an xcd lens.
 

hcubell

Well-known member
It never worked with my OG X1D, but it was much easier with the EVF of that camera to manually focus in LV. I will try it with my X2D.
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
I caught Soup taking one of his infrequent naps. (No more than 200 per day).

The view from my laptop. X2D, XCD 28P, f/8


Magnified peaking wide open


And stopped down to f/8. The image is noisier, as it was already poor light. You can see I'm pressing the M button on the top of the camera, which I've mapped to DoF preview. You have to keep the button held down, which is unfortunate. That's why it has to be a button you can reach with your non-focusing hand.


Matt
 
Last edited:

Paul2660

Well-known member
Magnified Live View works at 100% view, but IMO not very well, as about 1/2 of the time you don't see very much and or the image from peaking stays in place on the screen, like an overlay, this only goes away when you kill peaking and restart it or sometimes re-zooming to 100% in play mode then backing out will reset it. I have mentioned this to Hasselblad support but not heard anything back.

With a wide angle lens 30mm or using the 35-75 I find that peaking is not as pronounced at 100% zoom, and when I used the 135 with 1.7 converter it was next to impossible to see the effect of peaking at 100% zoom, however the EVF or LCD are both sharp enough to allow manual focus without it. At normal view peaking worked fine with this combo.

Biggest issue I have with peaking is where the previous view with peaking stays on the screen and overlays the image incorrectly. Happens a lot when I shoot panos as the on the first shot I will use the AF-D (AF-ON) to set focus, while set to MF, thus peaking will display. Once the image is taken I move to the next segment, often more times than not, I see the previous peaking still on the screen. I use this method as many times my pano will take the AF indicator into the sky, and odds are the camera will not get AF lock, thus that pano is off and I have to reset. Happens with most cameras, not just the X2D.

Paul
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Magnified Live View works at 100% view, but IMO not very well, as about 1/2 of the time you don't see very much and or the image from peaking stays in place on the screen, like an overlay, this only goes away when you kill peaking and restart it or sometimes re-zooming to 100% in play mode then backing out will reset it. I have mentioned this to Hasselblad support but not heard anything back.

With a wide angle lens 30mm or using the 35-75 I find that peaking is not as pronounced at 100% zoom, and when I used the 135 with 1.7 converter it was next to impossible to see the effect of peaking at 100% zoom, however the EVF or LCD are both sharp enough to allow manual focus without it. At normal view peaking worked fine with this combo.

Biggest issue I have with peaking is where the previous view with peaking stays on the screen and overlays the image incorrectly. Happens a lot when I shoot panos as the on the first shot I will use the AF-D (AF-ON) to set focus, while set to MF, thus peaking will display. Once the image is taken I move to the next segment, often more times than not, I see the previous peaking still on the screen. I use this method as many times my pano will take the AF indicator into the sky, and odds are the camera will not get AF lock, thus that pano is off and I have to reset. Happens with most cameras, not just the X2D.

Paul
I've found that putting the camera to sleep with a short power button press and waking it up again gets rid of the persistent peaking image. Fairly quick and easy. Not perfect, of course, but it's faster than a reboot. It also solves the "peaking just goes away" problem.
 

vjbelle

Well-known member
Paul...... I have given up with peaking on both my Fuji 100 II and CFV 100C as, to me, it degrades the fine detail that can be obtained by not using it. I much prefer 100% and slightly focusing near/far until I'm sure of the focus point. My success rate using that method is close to 100%.

Matt.... I have a Leica 90mm Asph that I use on my Sony 7RM5 and it has pretty severe focus shift but I have never used f8 for focus even though that may be my shooting aperture. I have found f5.6 to be close enough and then I'll stop down from there. if necessary I may even take two images with a slight tweak away from the shift direction.

Victor B.
 

jng

Well-known member
I caught Soup taking one of his infrequent naps. (No more than 200 per day).

The view from my laptop. X2D, XCD 28P, f/8


Magnified peaking wide open


And stopped down to f/8. The image is noisier, as it was already poor light. You can see I'm pressing the M button on the top of the camera, which I've mapped to DoF preview. You have to keep the button held down, which is unfortunate. That's why it has to be a button you can reach with your non-focusing hand.


Matt
Huh. The few times I've zoomed to 100% for manual focusing, the focus peaking seemed to disappear. I'll need to try again. What settings are you using? Thanks!

John
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Huh. The few times I've zoomed to 100% for manual focusing, the focus peaking seemed to disappear. I'll need to try again. What settings are you using? Thanks!

John
It's usually less vivid, and a contrasty lens helps. Are there settings other than color? I use Magenta. But I don't see a sensitivity selector anywhere.
 

jng

Well-known member
It's usually less vivid, and a contrasty lens helps. Are there settings other than color? I use Magenta. But I don't see a sensitivity selector anywhere.
Thanks, Matt. Yes, there are settings for sensitivity as well (I think). I've tried a few different colors and futz with this a bit more.

John
 

MGrayson

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Thanks, Matt. Yes, there are settings for sensitivity as well (I think). I've tried a few different colors and futz with this a bit more.

John
I can't find them. Let me know if you do! Jim Kasson also mentions that the peaking sensitivity is set inconveniently (too sensitive for a star, to insensitive for most other things) and doesn't say that it can be adjusted.
 
Top