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Mamiya N 65mm f/4 L -- a really nice lens

rdeloe

Well-known member
In January of this year I started a thread about the Fuji GSW cameras because I was interested in harvesting a 65mm lens from one. Over the course of the thread, with help and advice from wonderful forum members, I realized that a better choice was the Mamiya N 65mm f/4 L, one of the lenses for the Mamiya 7 system. I bought one, and mentioned that I'd provide a bit more feedback.

In a nutshell, I really like this lens. I was looking for a lens I could use on digital view cameras with my Fuji GFX 50R as the 'back'. My minimum expectations were that it would be excellent at f/8 across the frame; allow me to focus my F-Universalis by rail; and movements would be unrestricted. The last point is a concern with Mamiya 7 lenses because some have a lot of lens sticking out behind the mount. I also hoped it would be easy to re-mount. Note that to use one of these like I planned, you have to be willing to ruin it for Mamiya 7 cameras by removing all the bits and pieces that are extraneous or prevent its intended use, including removing the shutter blades.

The lens not only met my requirements, but also it opened up some photographic doors that have been closed for a long time because I've been shooting exclusively with my digital view cameras. I had to build a mount board for my F-Universalis, and discovered that the Mamiya 7 mount, when simplified, goes onto a simplified Mamiya 645 camera-side mount. I built a mount board for my F-Universalis, and on a whim build an adapter to use hacked Mamiya 7 lenses directly on my GFX 50R. Along the way, I've re-discovered the simple pleasure of walking around with a camera and one lens.

R. de Loe GFXA5195.jpg
Garbasaurus: a sculpture by Greg Elliott installed along the Speed River in Guelph, ON. The sculpture is made with junk pulled out of the river during a cleanup in 1999. Mamiya N 65mm f/4 L at f/4.

A truly pleasant surprise was discovering that this lens is really good at f/4. The MTF charts told me it wouldn't be a good choice for photographing brick walls. I expected the edges and corners to be weak at f/4 if I focused on the centre of a flat subject, and they are. But the central part of that brick wall would be nearly as sharp as the lens gets. And if you focus at the very edge of the image, the subject at that position will be sharp too.

I find the out of focus areas parts of scenes photographed wide open to be very pleasing, both in front and behind of the plane of focus, and the transition from in-focus to out-of-focus is smooth. It's been many years since I shot a lens wide open, but I'm doing that a lot with this one. I'm not a fan of "bokeh balls" and sun stars, but I was curious to see how the lens does with those. If you like that kind of thing, it seems fine to my eye.

R. de Loe GFXA4890.jpg
Bokeh balls all over the place at f/4.

At the other end of the aperture range, I am pleasantly surprised by how good f/16 is. Of course it's not the position of maximum sharpness thanks to diffraction. However, I'm finding that f/16 is an absolutely usable aperture on my GFX 50R. A little bit of extra texture in Lightroom brings back some of the detail lost to diffraction. Interestingly, I find that f/16 is more usable on the Mamiya N 65mm f/4 L than it is on a GF 45-85mm f/4 that I used to own (when used at 65mm). I don't have the GF lens anymore, so I'm not going to stand too firmly on this claim -- but when I compared two images of the same subject (albeit different times), I saw more blurring in the GF lens. It might simply be that one or the other isn't accurately f/16. Nonetheless, I use f/16 all the time so I'm glad it's very usable.

R. de Loe GFXA4975.jpg
Normally I'd rely on a bit of tilt and/or swing to help me get the plane of focus where I wanted it, but for this image I had to rely on f/16, and it didn't let me down.

I'm still trying to decide where the "sweet spot" is in terms of overall sharpness across the frame. I think it's f/8. At f/5.6, peak sharpness is reached, but the edges and corners can still be a bit soft on a brick wall test. By f/8, sharpness in the centre is falling a bit behind f/5.6, but the whole 33mm x 44mm frame on a flat subject is ready to go. For most of my photography, f/8 and f/11 are going to be familiar apertures; at f/11 there's no softness at all in the edges and corners, but of course diffraction is a bit more obvious.

R. de Loe GFXA4534.jpg
One of the many small limestone churches in Guelph, ON. This is f/8.

The lens has a few other optical strengths that are worth mentioning. I was delighted to discover that chromatic aberration is not a concern. At f/4 I can sometimes see a few pixel's worth of purple fringing in the places one would expect to see it, but it cleans up well in Lightroom, and is simply not present by f/8. I also really like the level of contrast (high without being painful), and the colours (very pleasing and natural to my eye). I have some lenses that need a lot of work in Lightroom to get colours right, but this one is easy.

Of course I bought this lens for use on a technical camera, so it needed to be perform well during tilts and shifts. Happily, tilt and swing happen very close to the rear nodal point, so there's very little recomposition needed. I have several lenses that do need a lot of recomposition, so that's not a deal breaker -- but it's nice that this one doesn't. The circle of good definition is large -- 89mm per Mamiya's specs. That translates to around 20mm of shift on GFX. I would take a bit more, and the lens can do it, but with this lens I'm getting mechanical vignetting from the top edge of the sensor cavity at 20mm, so a bigger image circle wouldn't be useful anyway. Note that this is not the fault of the lens. Those of you using medium format backs with 0mm flange distance don't have to worry about this, but my sensor is deep in the body, so the "cavity" in which it lives blocks the light on strong shifts.

Image quality at large shifts and f/11 (the aperture I'd be using if I shifted 20mm) seems very good so far. I've mostly been shooting with my simple adapter so I'm reserving a confident judgement on shift performance for the future. At this time I can say that light falloff is moderately strong (not surprising given the published Mamiya data), but thankfully there's no lens cast. Were I making flat stitched panos with large shifts, I'd probably use an LCC frame to sort out the light falloff.

All in all, this is a wonderful lens. In addition to its optical strengths, it's a delight mechanically (small, compact, not too heavy, aperture ring up front where I like it, and buttery smooth focus).

R. de Loe GFXA4938.jpg
Out on a sunny morning after freezing rain. Mamiya N 65mm f/4 L at f/5.6
 

alistairsimmons

Well-known member
Interesting read, Rob. Could you share how the lens looks now in it's ruined-for-Mamiya-7-fit-mounted-for-view-camera state?
 

SwissBear

Member
Hi Rob,
Beautiful pictures and an excellent demonstration of your expertise in the field of optical engineering/adaptation.
Congratulations
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
Hi Rob,
Beautiful pictures and an excellent demonstration of your expertise in the field of optical engineering/adaptation.
Congratulations
Thank you, and you're very kind! But I have to give credit where credit is due. I'm simply following the lead of someone who figured this out first. I got the idea to convert the first Mamiya lens (the G 50mm f/4) from Christoph Kugler, who has done a number of very interesting conversions: https://www.christoph-kuegler.com/conversion
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
Interesting read, Rob. Could you share how the lens looks now in it's ruined-for-Mamiya-7-fit-mounted-for-view-camera state?
Happily. From the rear (top left) you'll see how the levers and electronics have all been removed. The work is done by Bill Rogers from Mamiya Repair in Las Vegas, Nevada. The tough plastic cowl (which you can see poking out below the mount on the right) must be left on because it protects the rear element, which sticks out past its metal rim leaving the glass unprotected. The cowl also provides some protection from veiling flare.

I mentioned this in the other thread, but the big nice surprise in this project was finding that the Mamiya 7 bayonet mount pattern and size is almost the same as the Mamiya 645. You cannot mount an unmodified Mamiya 7 lens on a Mamiya 645 camera of course! However, when all the extraneous bits are removed, the Mamiya 7 lens fits on an extension tube from a Mamiya 645 camera. The space between the flange and the bayonets is looser on the Mamiya 7, so I had to gently tighten the springs in the extension tube mount. It's now a snug, smooth fit.

As I mentioned in the post, I built two adapters. Bottom-left is the one based on an M65 extension tube. It's a nice coincidence that the GFX to M65 mount plus M65 helicoid plus front of a Mamiya 645 extension tube, shaped and fitted together, gives the exact flange distance needed. Additionally, because it's a helicoid, I get a built-in extension for focusing closer than 1m when needed. On bottom-right is the board for my F-Universalis. I have to replace it, unfortunately, because the seller thought an older style Arca Swiss board would fit on an F-Universalis. It does not. It fits after I filed it down, but I'd prefer a better fit and I'm getting less than perfect f/4 performance, so I'm trying again with a proper new style Arca Swiss board. This one gets the job done, but the F-Universalis is so close to perfect that it pains me to use a less than perfect board! ;)

M65.jpg
 

buildbot

Well-known member
I mentioned this in the other thread, but the big nice surprise in this project was finding that the Mamiya 7 bayonet mount pattern and size is almost the same as the Mamiya 645.
That’s really good info to have!
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
That’s really good info to have!
I was delighted when I realized what they'd done. I was all set to remove the Mamiya 7 mount and attach a Mamiya 645 mount, but that would have been a tricky job, and it would have made re-attaching the crucial cowl difficult. This is a much tidier solution. So cheers to the Mamiya engineers who decided to just re-use the existing mount design!

Next up: I'm having a Mamiya N 43mm f/4.5 L and a Mamiya N 210mm f/8 L converted this week. These are both long-shots for different reasons. I know of only one person using a converted 210mm, and that person seems happy enough -- so fingers crossed that gives me a light long lens. I'm counting on Mamiya to have made it excellent at f/8, and will be disappointed if it's only good at f/11. Given the oddball application (210mm on a rangefinder!), there's a decent chance f/8 is actually fine.

The 43mm is a focal length I really like, and the MTF charts and user reports for this lens on film suggest it's spectacular. I've seen mixed reports on a GFX sensor, and I know it will only give me limited shift (5mm) on my F-Universalis; tilt should be plenty though. The problem is the long rear lens group that sticks out far enough to be inside the Rotafoot and nearly into the GFX lens mount. Unshifted images I've seen from this lens on a GFX 50R using the Fotodiox Mamiya 7 to GFX adapter suggest lens cast will not be a major problem. Shifted or tilted a bit is a different story; I'm expecting lens cast. I bought it primarily to use on the helicoid adapter as part of a three-lens "walking around" kit, so it's not the end of the world if it doesn't do well on my F-Universalis. I'm very happy with the 35mm Pentax-A 645 lens, and the Mamiya G 50mm f/4 is superb and has no movement constraints or lens cast -- so a 43mm lens in between those two on the F-Universalis is not really mission critical.
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
I finished a new mount board today for Mamiya 7 lenses, and what an improvement that makes to image quality. My first attempt, pictured above, used an old style Arca Swiss board for the F-Metric 6x9 camera. I don't know why Arca Swiss made them incompatible with the F-Universalis, but they are. They're just a bit too thick, and actually bend the mount system if you force them on. My solution was to file it down, but that was a failure. I couldn't get it to an even 1.5mm all around with hand tools.

So off to the Arca Shop for a new, modern recessed board. This time I screwed the Mamiya 645 extension ring mount part on from the rear, which is actually the only way that makes sense (with the benefit of the hindsight one gains from doing it wrong the first time...).

On the off chance that someone else in the world is curious about how to build one of these, it's actually quite straightforward, and I documented the whole process here.

At first glance the new board doesn't look that different, but I'm now getting side-to-side consistent good image quality at f/4 where with the previous board at full aperture, one side or the other would be fuzzy due to misalignment.

R. de Loe _T2B5283.jpg
 

observedlight

New member
That's awesome Rob!

I'm a little new to all this really.... I currently own a RZ67II and have a few lenses for it.

But was still interested in using those lenses with a modern mirrorless digital back rather than buying more lenses.
Would this work with the lens board you've documented with the Mamiya 7 lens board?
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
That's awesome Rob!

I'm a little new to all this really.... I currently own a RZ67II and have a few lenses for it.

But was still interested in using thos lenses with a modern mirrorless digital back rather than buying more lenses.
Would this work with the lens board you've documented... as in are the RZ67 lenses the same as the Mamiya 7 lenses?
Your RZ lenses are completely different system. However, people are using your lenses on the same kind of camera that you see in the picture, an Arcade Swiss F-universalis. Another option is a Cambi Actus. These two serve as the adapter. You then need to stick something on the back of the adapter to provide the sensor. I use a Fuji GFX50R. You can also use other kinds of mirrorless cameras, and of course medium format backs.
 

observedlight

New member
Ah yeah of course, but I guess the image circle would be the same size?
I was interested in the shift abilities you've documented.

Good to know though. Many thanks for documenting this, it's hard to research this sort of custom build!
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
I see what you mean. Yes, they both cover 6x7 film so the image circle could be the same size. It's a bit more complicated than that though when you start putting the lens on something it wasn't designed for.
 
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