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Newly purchased GFX100S has red tint
- Thread starter KEVINS
- Start date
Oh, heavens yes:
This type of photo is my starting point for doing a WB correction then creating a new ICC profile which will then be applied to the photo without the cards on it.
I always thought that the magenta/pink cast was an inherent feature of most CMOS sensors, maybe with exception of trichromatic backs and quite possible iq 4150. I could see it quite commonly on Sony CMOS sensors and almost never on older CCD ones (which for a change sometimes tend to give a slightly greenish tint). Obviously, you can correct it by white balancing, profiling and processing, but I thought that that was somehwat expected.
What is your light source?
With all due respect I'm not going into this and opening up more theories. The current issue I am having is not caused by my lighting setup as this was a rabbit hole that a few of us on this forum went down a few years ago on another issue with another camera to no avail. This current issue is isolated with this brand new camera and my processing process so PLEASE lets keep focused on these areas.
I'm sure the issue will be a camera setting then a PP workflow and I will need to relearn C1 in order to create a reliable workflow for this camera.
With the few minutes I have had playing with the RAF file and C1 tonight the WB correction definitely creates some weird results for some reason. I want to see if eliminating the WB correction altogether and just using an custom ICC will get it close to the 5DSr images.
ks
Mexecutioner
Well-known member
Best of luck with your issue then.
Ray Harrison
Well-known member
I was thinking about it like this: When I choose "daylight" in camera, the raw converter knows that's what I chose and applies at least it's set of interpretations as to what "daylight" means. So yeah, maybe it's nothing other than a flag but that's where I was coming from.
There are couple of EXIF entries in an example Phase file:
Light Source : Daylight
WB RGB Levels : 3.44411993026733 1 1.51391994953156
Maybe it's just keying off of the light source attribute to apply the white balance in the raw converter or maybe a combo of both (or others/none)? Not sure.
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buildbot
Well-known member
Nevermind, that's not IR contamination. Honestly it is very slight.
I respect that you may have discussed light sources in the past, but that is something one cannot ignore. Your mention of needing to eliminate outside light contamination leads me to assume you are using some sort of artificial light. It seems that different sensors might react differently to the spectrum produced by your lighting. So just ignore this if you’d like.With all due respect I'm not going into this and opening up more theories. The current issue I am having is not caused by my lighting setup as this was a rabbit hole that a few of us on this forum went down a few years ago on another issue with another camera to no avail. This current issue is isolated with this brand new camera and my processing process so PLEASE lets keep focused on these areas.
I'm sure the issue will be a camera setting then a PP workflow and I will need to relearn C1 in order to create a reliable workflow for this camera.
With the few minutes I have had playing with the RAF file and C1 tonight the WB correction definitely creates some weird results for some reason. I want to see if eliminating the WB correction altogether and just using an custom ICC will get it close to the 5DSr images.
ks
I'm getting ready to quit for the evening but before I do I have one issue with C1.
I can't see that C1 is applying ANY of the ICC profiles to any of my images. There are 50-60 different ICC profiles already in C1 and not a single one affects the images. I even tried the "yellow affects" profile and the B/W profile but nothing is changing the image.
As far as the WB goes I set the WB in the camera to Outdoors then took a pic. I then did a WB on the grey patch and it then gave the image a pink tint. See the right side of the screen shot below.
If I didn't do a WB correction I would lean towards the original RAF file looking pretty good as-is but I just wish I can get the ICC profiles to do something. It's possible that the RAF file is so close to being perfect that I can't see the ICC changes but since none of the "boxed" profiles or my really old custom ones I made under different lighting are doing anything I am guessing that the new ICC isn't being implemented.
Anyway, I'm done for the evening and I won't be able to get back to any of this until late Sat night or Sunday.
Have a great weekend everyone!
Kevin
I can't see that C1 is applying ANY of the ICC profiles to any of my images. There are 50-60 different ICC profiles already in C1 and not a single one affects the images. I even tried the "yellow affects" profile and the B/W profile but nothing is changing the image.
As far as the WB goes I set the WB in the camera to Outdoors then took a pic. I then did a WB on the grey patch and it then gave the image a pink tint. See the right side of the screen shot below.
If I didn't do a WB correction I would lean towards the original RAF file looking pretty good as-is but I just wish I can get the ICC profiles to do something. It's possible that the RAF file is so close to being perfect that I can't see the ICC changes but since none of the "boxed" profiles or my really old custom ones I made under different lighting are doing anything I am guessing that the new ICC isn't being implemented.
Anyway, I'm done for the evening and I won't be able to get back to any of this until late Sat night or Sunday.
Have a great weekend everyone!
Kevin
BFD
Active member
If anything, the Fuji file looks neutral and Canon file looks green. But putting the Fuji file next to the Canon file makes it look magenta since the Canon file is so green.
You won't get an accurate file with the camera set to auto WB. All the colors in the scene will influence what decision the camera makes on the white balance. Set the camera to 5500K. Use a 5500K light source. Also, if your "studio" environment is anything other than black/white/gray, then the light bouncing off whatever is there will also change the color of the light.
You won't get an accurate file with the camera set to auto WB. All the colors in the scene will influence what decision the camera makes on the white balance. Set the camera to 5500K. Use a 5500K light source. Also, if your "studio" environment is anything other than black/white/gray, then the light bouncing off whatever is there will also change the color of the light.
Godfrey
Well-known member
It's a little difficult for me to see an "unprocessed raw" image file other than as a long, long string of numbers.
Raw files are not yet in a 2D image space ... even if they contain a calibration spec and a JPEG preview (approximation), the actual raw data is just data, not an image yet. All raw data takes image processing to render it to a 2D image. The question is *always* what calibration and color parameters are used to render the raw data into an image.
G
The green tint that you mention is correct for the painting, that's one of the colors of the background albeit a tad too green in the photo. If you look at the sharp edge of the sword that hard edge is pure white in the painting but the photo still has a bit of a green tint beyond this.
As I mention in my above post the C1 split screen shows the Left side pretty good with NO WB correction where the Right side has the pink tint AFTER I did a WB correction using the grey card shown on the screen.
Doing a WB correction in C1 gives the same results as doing a WB correction ACR does so there must be something in the Fuji files that tells the processing software to add the pink tint.....??
If I can get the custom ICC profile to work it may correct the overly green that I think it has and a WB correction may not be required..
ks
As I mention in my above post the C1 split screen shows the Left side pretty good with NO WB correction where the Right side has the pink tint AFTER I did a WB correction using the grey card shown on the screen.
Doing a WB correction in C1 gives the same results as doing a WB correction ACR does so there must be something in the Fuji files that tells the processing software to add the pink tint.....??
If I can get the custom ICC profile to work it may correct the overly green that I think it has and a WB correction may not be required..
ks
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lookbook
Well-known member
... i didn't claim anything else - !It's a little difficult for me to see an "unprocessed raw" image file other than as a long, long string of numbers.
Raw files are not yet in a 2D image space ... even if they contain a calibration spec and a JPEG preview (approximation), the actual raw data is just data, not an image yet. All raw data takes image processing to render it to a 2D image. The question is *always* what calibration and color parameters are used to render the raw data into an image.
G
it's just always said that a RAW image from one camera looks different from the next camera.
there is no RAW image that we see!
it is always a processed image that we see ...
Imvho… and having ditched Fuji for exactly this reason you have to go ‘blad, Nikon or phase if you want reliable neutral colour. All have their own ‘flavour’ which may be more to personal taste. I switched to the ‘blads and the colour is really to my taste and is not polluted by magenta bias - especially in greens.
Looks to me like the wider gamut of the fuji is causing you problems, people assume that all cameras can capture all colours and a ICC will sort out any problems. there is lots of algorithmic fudging to correct for non linear response of photo pits across wavelengths. There will always be differences between sensors, this is most apparent in deep browns and reds in shadows. I have a friend who does archiving for Cambridge University and get it right is critical. Phase One have this market in the bag
