Stan Lawrence
New member
I've been testing out an RZ with a 33mp DM back. Does anyone have a sharpening "formula" I can use as a starting point?
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*******Thanks for the responses.... I was referring to sharpening when I process the raw file.... I'm using LR, I'll experiment with the above suggestions.
The de-moisaicing of the image data in the raw conversion most likely will also cause a slight softening of edges, so a slight capture sharpen is a good idea for all digital captures.Well, I'm a bad advisor, but since it's been 2 days... My answer is...don't.
My 11mp back pretty much needs no sharpening. As I understand it, the "primary" purpose of USM is to remove the blurring of the antialiasing filter. No AA filter, no Gaussian blur to remove with USM. Or, to simulate removal...I don't think you're technically removing it, since that image data is forever gone. USM just fools your eye into thinking it's there.
Good point, Wayne. I must have been intentionally unintentionally referring to the just-announced monochrome back. Yeah, that was it.The de-moisaicing of the image data in the raw conversion most likely will also cause a slight softening of edges, so a slight capture sharpen is a good idea for all digital captures.
As to whether the data is forever gone I suppose it isn't really gone, it's just been spread to adjacent pixels. Theoretically it might be possible for software to understand how that spread had taken place and restore it to the correct pixels. As to whether sharpening moves some of it back or just fools your eye ... you might be right, but way above my pay grade, and fortunately it works pretty good.
Right about the same as the 33MP back Ed, maybe cut amount down to ~ 100%...So Jack, based on your principles above (according to which you made a suggestion for a 33MP back), what would you recommend as starting values for a 40MP sensor such as that of the 645D?
Worked very nicely, thanks. Time to order the 645 now....So for your 33MP back, I'd try using capture sharpening of around 125%, 0.4 radius and threshold 2.0 in C1 for a sharp original; pre-1 for a slightly softer than normal; and even soft-1 or 2 for an obviously bad original, then add some smart sharpen or even high-pass sharpening in CS/LR as appropriate.