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Hasselblad 24mm (or 25mm) f2.5V and 135mm f2.5V
- Thread starter tcdeveau
- Start date
GeorgeBo
Well-known member
100%
Would also be nice to have this export border feature on the desktop version of Phocus too. Sometimes would like to document the EXIF info, location, etc. An editable section would be nice
MGrayson
Subscriber and Workshop Member
Apologies for cluttering up this thread with crops of edges and corners. I'm only sorry that the days are over when one could count on a lens from Hasselblad meeting its design specs out of the box. If I wanted poor QC, there are many less expensive alternatives.Take these for what they are. Just walk around shots this evening. CFV 100C, handheld, no tripod and limited to Phocus on the iPad and resized to allow past the file limit size on the forum. No 100% pixel peeping. Yeah, carried away with the Hasselblad branded export template on the iPad too
First impression, I love this lens. The build quality, handling on the CFV 100C is outstanding. What is selling me right away is the close focus capability and manual focusing capability of this lens. Not looking at corners and edges. Yet
George
This is a corner with all lens corrections done in Phocus.
I'll shut up now.
Matt
PapaJoe
Active member
My PS script for adding EXIF.
Joe
GeorgeBo
Well-known member
Great tool Joe!
GeorgeBo
Well-known member
Matt - I didn’t mean to imply anything wrong with viewing edges and corners in my post. Sorry if it came across that way. Hard to read the room in a forum. I meant I was not going to try to even attempt going there with a handheld casual walk shot and trying to post process on a minimal capabilities iOS app on an iPad. I will do my pixel peeping when I can get proper shots on a tripod and back home in front of a good screen.Apologies for cluttering up this thread with crops of edges and corners. I'm only sorry that the days are over when one could count on a lens from Hasselblad meeting its design specs out of the box. If I wanted poor QC, there are many less expensive alternatives.
This is a corner with all lens corrections done in Phocus.
I'll shut up now.
Matt
Thanks for posting your examples.
MGrayson
Subscriber and Workshop Member
I’m just feeling guilty that I don’t have any photos to show! It’s so much easier to test equipment than it is to use it.
Matt
Matt..... thanks for taking the time to post the absolutely poor performance of the 25V. A lens I would never buy. It got a real bad rap at Chambers site along with the 38V and 55V. These lenses aren't cheap and sure should perform better. Curvature is the obvious result for smaller size and lighter weight. None of these lenses can be used for landscape or any image that requires the focus plane to be the same across the image.Apologies for cluttering up this thread with crops of edges and corners. I'm only sorry that the days are over when one could count on a lens from Hasselblad meeting its design specs out of the box. If I wanted poor QC, there are many less expensive alternatives.
This is a corner with all lens corrections done in Phocus.
I'll shut up now.
Matt
I have yet to buy a Hasselblad lens for my 907X but if I do it will only be from someone who will take it back - no questions asked.
Victor B.
Edit: OOPs...... Chambers hasn't reviewed the 25mm yet - has not received his copy. If it's even 1/4 as bad as Matt's it will be rejected.
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MGrayson
Subscriber and Workshop Member
Victor,
To be clear, the older XCD lenses are optically stellar. I've owned the 21, 45, and 90 twice, and the 30, 120 and 135 once ( i went to Fuji when they introduced IBIS). Every copy was sharp over the full frame wide open. The newer ones seem to suffer from sample variation as much or more than inherent design flaws. All I can say about the XCD 25 is that this copy has issues. My first XCD 28P was poor, the second copy was good. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .
Matt
PS. Looking this morning, I can get center and corners sharp simultaneously at f/8 by manually focusing past infinity. If that's the best this lens design can do, I'll keep it.
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The longer FL's are always better. The new 90mm is supposed to be very good and impossible to find. The 135mm would be one of my first purchases if I were to develop the system. The wides are very difficult. I have been waiting forever for the Fuji 30mm T/S which is reported to be superb. All of the other Fuji wides ( less than 45mm ) are lenses I would never own. It's good to hear you have had success with some of the Hasselblad lenses. The 65mm is supposed to be stellar....
Victor B.
Victor B.
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MGrayson
Subscriber and Workshop Member
A further drill down on field curvature and f-stop
I shot a center, edge, and corner series at multiple stops and at three focus settings, ∞, ∞ + 1.5mm, ∞ + 3mm. The results vary with f-stop, but understanding them helps figure out what the lens (this copy anyway) can and can't do.
In all these triptychs, the three focus points are, left to right, ∞, ∞ + 1.5mm, ∞ + 3mm. The Center and Corner crops are from the same images (taken on the diagonal). The Edge crops are from a second set of horizontal shots.
f/2.5 Center
f/2.5 Edge
f/2.5 Corner
f/2.5 summary: The center is sharp at ∞, the edge is very good at ∞ + 1.5mm , and the corner is ... least bad at ∞ + 1.5mm.
f/4 Center
f/4 Edge
f/4 Corner
Look at that! ∞ + 1.5mm (the center shot in each row) is sharp. All you need (on my copy, I repeat) is to focus 1.5mm past ∞, and that's why a mechanical focus scale is so important. If this were a tech camera, I would just shim the lens.
Does it continue? Let's look at f/5.6
Center
Edge
Corner
Yup
Let's just look at the ∞ + 1.5mm series for f/8 and f/11.
f/8
f/11
Some CA effects on the right edge of Mt. Sinai (the black monolith), but these were processed in LR and it doesn't have XCD 25 profiles yet. Indeed, CA seems the least controlled thing here. Running Adaptive CA Correction in Phocus usually gets rid of it, but that's not the standard setting, so you'd think something isn't quite right.
Well, I'd still like to know this compares to other copies.
Matt (who will post real pictures next time - promise!)
I shot a center, edge, and corner series at multiple stops and at three focus settings, ∞, ∞ + 1.5mm, ∞ + 3mm. The results vary with f-stop, but understanding them helps figure out what the lens (this copy anyway) can and can't do.
In all these triptychs, the three focus points are, left to right, ∞, ∞ + 1.5mm, ∞ + 3mm. The Center and Corner crops are from the same images (taken on the diagonal). The Edge crops are from a second set of horizontal shots.
f/2.5 Center
f/2.5 Edge
f/2.5 Corner
f/2.5 summary: The center is sharp at ∞, the edge is very good at ∞ + 1.5mm , and the corner is ... least bad at ∞ + 1.5mm.
f/4 Center
f/4 Edge
f/4 Corner
Look at that! ∞ + 1.5mm (the center shot in each row) is sharp. All you need (on my copy, I repeat) is to focus 1.5mm past ∞, and that's why a mechanical focus scale is so important. If this were a tech camera, I would just shim the lens.
Does it continue? Let's look at f/5.6
Center
Edge
Corner
Yup
Let's just look at the ∞ + 1.5mm series for f/8 and f/11.
f/8
f/11
Some CA effects on the right edge of Mt. Sinai (the black monolith), but these were processed in LR and it doesn't have XCD 25 profiles yet. Indeed, CA seems the least controlled thing here. Running Adaptive CA Correction in Phocus usually gets rid of it, but that's not the standard setting, so you'd think something isn't quite right.
Well, I'd still like to know this compares to other copies.
Matt (who will post real pictures next time - promise!)
Thanks, Matt. You clearly are an experimentalist trapped in a theorist's body and mind!A further drill down on field curvature and f-stop
I shot a center, edge, and corner series at multiple stops and at three focus settings, ∞, ∞ + 1.5mm, ∞ + 3mm. The results vary with f-stop, but understanding them helps figure out what the lens (this copy anyway) can and can't do.
In all these triptychs, the three focus points are, left to right, ∞, ∞ + 1.5mm, ∞ + 3mm. The Center and Corner crops are from the same images (taken on the diagonal). The Edge crops are from a second set of horizontal shots.
f/2.5 Center
f/2.5 Edge
f/2.5 Corner
f/2.5 summary: The center is sharp at ∞, the edge is very good at ∞ + 1.5mm , and the corner is ... least bad at ∞ + 1.5mm.
f/4 Center
f/4 Edge
f/4 Corner
Look at that! ∞ + 1.5mm (the center shot in each row) is sharp. All you need (on my copy, I repeat) is to focus 1.5mm past ∞, and that's why a mechanical focus scale is so important. If this were a tech camera, I would just shim the lens.
Does it continue? Let's look at f/5.6
Center
Edge
Corner
Yup
Let's just look at the ∞ + 1.5mm series for f/8 and f/11.
f/8
f/11
Some CA effects on the right edge of Mt. Sinai (the black monolith), but these were processed in LR and it doesn't have XCD 25 profiles yet. Indeed, CA seems the least controlled thing here. Running Adaptive CA Correction in Phocus usually gets rid of it, but that's not the standard setting, so you'd think something isn't quite right.
Well, I'd still like to know this compares to other copies.
Matt (who will post real pictures next time - promise!)
My interpretation on just one double-shot of espresso, with the usual caveat of n = 1: assuming you focused the lens wide open, there appears to be focus shift combined with a bit of field curvature layered on top. Or did you focus manually at each aperture while stopped down?
I would assume/hope that the files will be cleaner wrt CA once processed through Phocus.
John
MGrayson
Subscriber and Workshop Member
John,
Everything was manual focused on the barrel - think tech cam before CMOS. I had recognized that I could get each point individually sharp (once past f/4), but couldn't tell if a single focus setting would work for the full frame (as it is, only three points on the frame were checked, and lens designers know which three points you're going to check, so they do sneaky things...)
The manual focus option is a real boon. I'll see if stopped down AF chooses the past-infinity points, but I'm happier knowing where infinity is.
Matt
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Right. Old school! To pose my question more clearly: did you focus wide open in all instances, or did you focus at each shooting aperture. I ask, because wide open infinity focus seems pretty sharp, whereas infinity + 1.5mm appears best after stopping down.
Thx.
John
MGrayson
Subscriber and Workshop Member
John,
I didn't look at the LCD or EVF at all while focusing! I set the lens barrel to those three marks. So the f-stop didn't enter into it at all. What you're seeing is field curvature at f/2.5 and focus shift at all other f-stops. At least the field flattens out at f/4 and above. The moral is that focusing wide open will be ... suboptimal ... for any smaller aperture, at least at infinity.
I'll have to try focusing stopped down and see if that agrees with the ∞ + 1.5mm setting, but I'm too tired to try that today.
Matt
George--great handheld pics. I have the problem of never being able to handhold the 907x 100C and get it in focus. No matter how I brace myself I still am out of focus. It works fine on a tripod but even on a monopod I can't get things into sharp focus. My equipment works great! I am the defective element I am afraid!
Here is a very different test scene that I shot yesterday with the XCD 25mm at f/5.6 that to me looks excellent for my use cases. The point of focus was in the center just above the barbeque. First, the full scene. Next is the 100% center crop. Then, 100% top crop. Then, the left edge. Next, the right edge.
Attachments
MGrayson
Subscriber and Workshop Member
Nice! Good look. Now I just have to find a house with a barbecue.....
No, you just need to travel with a barbeque and always remember to put it into the scene. Works like a charm.Nice! Good look. Now I just have to find a house with a barbecue.....