Menu
What's new
The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

More and more film fun with something other than a Leica M

Nokton48

Nokton48

Well-known member
SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr



For telescopic location work (scaled down a bit!) the 500mm Schneider Tele-Xenar F5.5 in Compound Shutter. Been advised by my repairman not to use the cable release, it caused a jam he fixed it. Best to use it as is, I'll be trying. Same perspective very similar view to 1000mm F16 I'm keeping set up in the studio for long 8x10 work. It's heavy but hey it's sturdy to use.
 
Last edited:
Nokton48

Nokton48

Well-known member
Plaubel Peco Junior 100mm Bag Bellows Adjustable Viewing Unit by Nokton48, on Flickr

The lens is a 100mm Plaubel F3.9 Supracomar, it normally would be attached to a 9x12cm Avus folder. On the Peco Junior the circle is plenty big enough for full camera movements. The Adjustable Magnifer on the back, allows me to see right side brightly, or with a shift, left side brightly. Leitz Ball head attached to an early Leitz Tiltall, notice I JB Welded a Bubble level to help level the legs. I could hike for miles with this thing if I wanted to, folded up it's easy to carry around with one hand! A small padded bag for holders and backs, and I am set. I also have a custom made E Sony Digital APSC Back for this camera, which also works quite well in the field.
 
Nokton48

Nokton48

Well-known member
First Test of NPL 8x10 HRU 1000mm F32 18 pops Octobox by Nokton48, on Flickr

First test of Negative Lab Pro, a program which converts large format negatives (small ones too) into nice looking positives. This is 8x10 Fuji HRU XRAY Film, D23 replenished. Neg copied with Sony Nex-7 (36mp) with 50mm Zeiss F2.8 Touit, an AWESOME optic.

1000mm f16 Rodenstock Apo Ronar test, I adjusted the curves and prefer this new version.
18 pops effective f64 aperture. Two stops were required to compensate for bellows draw. The 8x10 Norma is infinitely extendable. I could have upped the power pack to something bigger, but in this case I decided to go with multiple pops. Beautiful wrap around lighting and notice the attractive specular catch lights, thanks to the Broncolor Octobox 150.
 
Nokton48

Nokton48

Well-known member
SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

This 210mm F4.5 N-51 lens arrived yesterday $75 from Serbia. New in box never used, with working flange, I used shim washers inside the Plaubel Tubus. to adjust for perfect infinity focus wide open. The lens is a sleeper (some say a DUD), but I do like it a lot. A Tessar optical design, a lot like my Schneider Xenars in the "look through", a bit less contrasty though to my eye. Quite sharp and pleasant bokeh. I look forward to shooting with this one. Shown on my Plaubel Auto Makiflex #1, I also redid some of the light trapping front and back on this camera, it's all ready to go again.
 
Nokton48

Nokton48

Well-known member
SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

I have been doing some preliminary testing with my Makina IIIR/Focal Plane Shutter, viewing the groundglass very sharply with my excellent Ednalite Magnifier. At infinity focus, with the tongs in the WA position, the 100mm F4.2 Orthometar is defiantly very sharp at infinity. So the question now becomes, using the rangfinder focused at various distances, and the distance then reset to the focal plane scale just under the front viewing lens, how sharp is image on the groundglass?? After some handheld testing at 1.5 meters, 3 meters, 5 meters, and 10 meters, EVERYTHING APPEARS SHARP THROUGH THE MAGNIFIER ON THE GROUND GLASS. I will retest again, using the Ednalite, but it appears I am golden. Next testing with be with Makina 8 shot backs, using 120 Kentmere 400, so I can achieve action stopping shutter speeds up to 1/1000, which is the whole point of using the focal plane shutter. One point I have noticed is that it is difficult to set the exact distance which I transpose onto the focal plane scale. It is very small scale physically and it is touchy to accurately set the focus distance. To not be in a hurry helps a lot! I think this is going to work for me, my camera seems to be set up properly to use this stuff. YAY. Time will tell. Now to find some test subjects that need to be frozen in time.
 
lookbook

lookbook

Well-known member
15068531400_5418502136_o.jpg

Beam me up ...
Nikon F6 | Nikkor 35mm | Trix-D76 | Hasselblad Imacon Drumscan 949​
 
Nokton48

Nokton48

Well-known member
Superboom Up Apus 2 Primo Head Universal Beauty Light by Nokton48, on Flickr

Superboom Up Apus 2 Primo Head Universal Beauty Light 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I wrestled around with the Superboom today, got it all tuned up and decided to do a quickie test shoot ala "Beauty Lighting". Overhead Primo 2 Head with Universal Broncolor Beauty Dish, did some machine work to convert it to modern Pulso fittings. Apus 2 Broncolor Power Pack turned down to 7.9 power setting. Pulled out one of my Mamiya C22 TLR's with 135mm, loaded with Shanghai 220, camera has the Porrofinder and Stovepipe so fully tricked out. Metered with Broncolor Strobe Meter. It was fun to get back into the studio after a short hiatus.
 
A

arri

Well-known member
I made this photo with a very old Wollensak Vesta 7" f/5
I mount the lens cells in a modern Press I shutter because the original one has only B and T setting.
This lens has a classic design of the 1840 Petzval but is not so fast but fast enough.
Here I used f/5 and the 9x12cm sheet size.
Film is the Fuji X-Ray UM-MA, developed in Jobo Alpha

53978724968_bd57cfb1a2_b.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top